A
Cape to Adventure
Story and photographs
by Roderick Eime
The Australian love
affair with the 4WD is evident everywhere from Cocklebiddy to Coles Car
Park. Great roaring, bull-bar reinforced, spotlight-emblazoned urban assault
vehicles ferry cherubic pre-schoolers and burly scaffolders alike. Most
look like they’ve never seen more danger than the odd pigeon poop,
so can these all-terrain behemoths really hack the rough stuff? We found
out.
Our objective was
to take a showroom-standard 4WD vehicle all the way to the tip of Cape
York and back with a minimum of preparation and damage, whilst still enjoying
a true off-road experience. Our candidate machine: a brand new Volkswagen
Touareg 4WD 3.2 V6. Its big brother, the V8 version, had just won
the prestigious 2003 4WD of the Year Award (Overlander
Magazine), so we knew we weren't dealing with some fragile pretender.
Cape York Peninsula
is a bush-driving destination of considerable repute and on the very short
list of all aspiring off-roaders. The very "blokey" mix of hundreds
of kilometres of dirt road, nights under the stars, true frontier country,
and the odd crocodile provided the ideal formula for our test of mechanised
manhood.
Our journey began
in Cairns, the gateway to Cape York, after a softening ride aboard Queensland
Rail's luxurious Queenslander.
We kicked back with gourmet cuisine, the occasional glass of merlot, comfy
bunks, and hand-and-foot service that in no way prepared us for the trials
ahead.
Carefully unloaded
from the train, we proceeded at a doddle toward Cooktown, along the 250km
coastal route via Mossman. Recently sealed, this leg was merely sightseeing
as we twisted and turned along the scenic Coral Sea coast, the road bordered
by lush Daintree forest on one side and vast, white powder beaches on
the other.
The warnings and the crocodiles are real
Beyond Cape Tribulation and
its many lodges, resorts, and hostels, we came upon our first sections of
real dirt, and with a light sprinkle of rain, the Touareg was christened
with its inaugural dusting of mud, but as yet, nothing had tested our
European steed.
At the tiny aboriginal
community of Wujal Wujal, the Walker sisters took visitors on an informative
stroll to Bloomfield Falls, pointing out bush tucker plants and relating
the local myths and legends. Lunch Tip: Croc’n’Barra Café,
Ayton – yes!
Pete ripped the Touareg through a freshwater creek on Elim Beach near
Cooktown.
Pulling up for our overnighter
at the legendary, 125-year-old Lions Den Hotel, we parked very conspicuously
amongst the omnipresent Toyota Hiluxes and Landcruisers so dominant in
this neck of the woods. Genuine outback types, complete with ragged blue
singlets and crusty Akubras, as well as over-equipped caravaners, eyed
the lone, muscly Volkswagen with a mix a wonder and suspicion.
We bade a bleary farewell
to the all-too-memorable Lions Den and headed off toward Cooktown, rejoining
the mainly sealed thoroughfare just up the way. Cooktown, now a charming
and authentic frontier town, was named after the famous captain who camped
there for nearly two months in 1770 while repairing Endeavour after her
fateful encounter with the nearby reef that now bears her name. As a consequence,
the proud and eclectic Cooktonians brag about their village being the
site of the first European settlement on mainland Australia.
Numerous creek crossings keep you on your toes - this was a big one.
From Cooktown, a course
was set for Laura, a mere 138kms hence, taking in the lower reaches of
the Lakefield National Park. Beyond the town, famous for its annual rodeo,
is the Peninsula Developmental Road, which links the major roadhouses,
rest stops and towns of Hutt River, Musgrave, Coen, and Archer River, 312kms
from Laura. Each of these layovers provides good food, camping, and most
facilities. Along this stretch, the road is mainly pretty good but is interspersed
with hazards like dust bowls and patches of deep corrugations that can
throw you off your game if unprepared. Stay alert--don’t be lulled
into excessive speed and give yourself LOTS of time to slow down for the
numerous creek crossings. Silly accidents occur when drivers plunge into
the water too fast and find it's full of rocks - or other vehicles!
If time is on your
side and you're up for a bit of left-field adventure, there's the Gibson
family's Munbah Beach Resort, about
30 clicks out of Cooktown. What began as a ramshackle weekender on one
of the most pristine stretches of coastline anywhere on the Cape is now
largely unchanged! Local Guugu Yimithirr tribal elder Les Gibson and his
wife, Marie, entertain city folks at their modest shack on Elim Beach,
just north of Cape Bedford in the Hope Vale reserve. There's spear-fishing,
aboriginal bushcraft, and tucker, plus traditional arts. It's something
you won't find in the Michelin guide! From there, you can continue (if
properly prepared) through Lakefield National Park, rejoining the main
route at Musgrave Roadhouse.
Beyond Archer River Roadhouse,
the Development Road continues on to Weipa and the way north is now along
the fabled Telegraph Track, passing by Moreton (former) Telegraph Station,
now a popular camping spot. At Bramwell Junction, 163km from Archer,
the hardcore 4WDers continue straight on along the Old Telegraph Track,
but those wanting a relatively smooth passage will opt, as we did, for
the new Bamaga Road. It bypasses the notorious Gunshot Creek and other
treacherous crossings for which we were not prepared. If you choose this
route, for heaven’s sake, make sure you’ve got all the gear
like winches, snorkels and bag jacks.
Depending on your
timing, the corrugations on the road can vary from awful to bad or just
plain appalling. Anything loose will fall off; your dentures will vibrate,
and forget about playing a CD. Our brawny Touareg took all this in stride; the sophisticated suspension and computerised traction control
laughing at these petty obstacles. Our only real concern was exceeding
the stated 500mm wading depth, which we did on occasions (shhh), fortunately
without any trouble.
Have your wallet
and your sense of humour handy for the Jardine River ferry
The Jardine River Ferry affords
us some comic relief before we complete the final 220km to Bamaga from
Bramwell. The fee is a whopping $88 return, including GST, cash only,
and don’t ask for a receipt. Lunchtime is strictly observed, and
so are you as the cheerless operator scowls from inside his noisy cabin.
The once-popular river crossing has been dredged, assuring your valued
patronage.
Pete enjoys a satisfying
view over Punsand Bay
Once at the Cape,
we set base at the comfortable Resort
Bamaga and make our final 34km lunge at the tip in a leisurely all-day
foray that takes in many of the local sights including the fabled Croc
Shop, probably Australia’s most northerly retailer and some of the
still accessible wartime plane wrecks scattered in the bush. The Pajinka
Lodge has fallen into disrepair and is currently abandoned, making the
idyllic Punsand Bay Safari and Fishing Lodge the only accommodation option
within cooee of the tip.
If you're a bit cheeky
and want to really tick the journey off, it's possible to negotiate the
tracks around the old resort and drive out onto the sand flats. This will
take you within about 50m of the very tip of the Cape and earn you maximum
bragging rights. A short stroll will take you to the plaque marking Australia's
most northerly point - and that's it! Now all you need is the T-shirt.
Don't rush back; instead,
do as we did and savour your victory. Linger for a day or two; take in
some fishing and perhaps a ferry over to Thursday
Island before tightening your U-bolts for the return journey.
At the tip of Cape
York