There is one thing a tour guide/travel agent will be sure to tell you when planning a trip to Morrocco. With a stern look, he/she will say, "Please be advised to travel in large groups of men and women. Going solo is not recommended".
Despite the heeded warning, my boyfriend Justin and I decided to brave the trip alone. I had been living in Europe for over six months and needed an adventure - something off the beaten path. After gathering information from friends who had visited Morocco and Mauritania, I devised a tentative plan that provided a (albeit false) sense of security.
Our journey began in the port city of Algeciras, Spain, which in itself plays a very important role in international trade. Algeciras is located along the
Gilbraltar Straight, which connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The town caters to the transient lifestyles of those who pass thru; convenience and service monopolize a town once rich with rivaling culture and history. Despite our time limitations, we had an hour to peruse the cobblestone streets of Algeciras' city center. Suprisingly, the town itself was manicured, tastefully decorated with minimal art sculptures. The street signs read both Arabic and Spanish. I hoped to see more of a Moorish infuence in
Algeciras; but the town serves its purpose as one of the busiest international seaports in the world.
We arrived by bus to the Port Authority of Algeciras, and bought two tickets for the 3pm Transmediterranea ferry to Tangier, Morrocco. It cost us around US$20 (currency conversion: US$1 to 11.5 Dirham), an affordable price for a cross-continental boat ride.
As the ferry left European soil into the open waterway, we had three hours to spare before reaching Tangier. The Western tourists primarily stayed on the decks of the boat, leisurely enjoying the rolling mountainscapes of Andalucia. The lower levels of the ferry were mostly occupied by Arab men and women, traditionally clad in Jelabahs. Jelabahs are long hooded robes that hide the body form and provide comfort in intense temperatures. I felt disrepectful in my shorts and tshirt, which in part stationed my travel on the upper deck.
My first look upon Tangiers was a memorable one. As the sun set, a brilliant gleam blinded our sight from the moutainous terrain overrun with decrepit buildings and Muslim mosques. I was handed a multicolored scarf by a French woman we chatted with on the ferry; I gratefully accepted it and covered my long red hair.
We found a room for under US$10 at the Hotel Continental (36 Rue Dar El Baroud Tel: 039-931024). Justin and I both bought jelabahs and entered into the medina shortly before dusk. Tangier reminded me of the Disney movie Aladdinm teeming with merchants constantly pushing items into our hands, haggling the price in order to make a sell. We were lead to an "African Herbsman" who concocted plant potions and sold packages of saffron.
Justin finally got the jist of the game and tried to sell me for 100 camels. It almost worked :).
Shortly, it became dark. Calls to prayer echoed throughout the alleys of the medina. Suddenly, the haggling stopped. The merchants swiftly packed up their goods and began to face east. The women, however, were nowhere to be seen. It is taboo for a woman to be out past dark in Tangier; I took this as my cue and headed back to the Hotel Continental.
Tangier is just the gateway to an ancient world seemingly untouched by westernized culture. Each city, mountaintown and roadside cafe tells a unique story. My time spent in Tangier was just a precursor to other cities in Morrocco; it is a fantastic introduction to a mystically enchanting ancient world.