Purchase ticket (the day before) at the Addis Mercato Bus Station, from an office in the North-West corner. Cost 54 birr, get to the bus station at 5:30am to join the scrum and get a front-row seat. Bus left at 7am, stopped for breakfast at Awash at 10am. Pass through flat dry country, until we turn south through Asbe Tefari and pass though some gorgeous mountain scenery and terraced fields. I’d love to come back to this part of the country some day and explore the Chercher and Arba Gugu Mountains, between the towns of Hirna and Kalubi. Arrived in Harer at 7pm, a 12-hour bus ride.
Stayed at Tewdros Hotel, room with attached bath was 35 birr. No running water, just large communal tubs filled with muddy water. Picked up a flea that made life miserable. At night, there’s a pitched battle between the local dogs and hyenas -- amazing to hear.
-- tried to book with the one near Erer Gate, but he wanted 50 birr. He already had 10 people booked and I offered 30 birr, and he told me to leave. Decided I didn’t feel like spending C$10 to watch somebody feed his damn dogs. As it later turns out, there are three competing hyena men, each operating out of a different gate in the evening. I later met a guy who was an assistant to another hyena man, and his price was 30 birr, but I was no longer keen.
Andenya Menged Kék Bét
: located outside Harer Gate. Good coffee, juices, sambusas.