What is Nottingham all about? Robin Hood plays a big part, although he was more a countryside kind of guy. Torvill & Dean might ring a bell
with some (whatever happened to ice dancing anyway?). For many her industrial past has played a large part in defining the culture and shape
of the city; Players cigarettes and Raleigh bicycles have come and gone and their factories are now disappearing too. Boots is still going
(fairly) strongly with a site out to the southeast that sprawls over several postal districts.
The 18/19th century growth of the lace industry brought enormous changes to the architecture of the city centre. Mighty factories and
warehouses sprang up creating the area known as the Lacemarket, the population boomed and Nottingham built up its 'five girls to every boy'
reputation with female factory workers. Stag parties now descend on the city in their droves every weekend, hoping that the statistics still
hold true. The factories are long gone, and sadly the gender imbalance too, but the shady cobbled streets and warehouses remain, reinvented
as THE happening district. Trendy loft living, nightclubs and chi-chi bars - the place to be seen.
One of the district's prominent features is the church on the corner of Fletcher Gate and High Pavement, a spot known as Weekday Cross. No
worshipping options here however, the church has been deconsecrated and taken over by the Pitcher and Piano chain of bars. The result
- a dramatic interior that becomes a crowded pick up joint every weekend. Pleasant enough lunches though.
La Tasca (0115 959 9456) is a popular chain of Spanish restaurants and its Nottingham branch can also be found on Weekday Cross.
Delicious tapas and paella can be enjoyed in a bright, bustling atmosphere at an affordable price. We tend to nip in early or midweek after
work when bookings aren't necessary.
And the rest of the Lacemarket? Well its time to own up and admit to my lack of cool - and the desire to sit down during a night out. The
Redhead and I are not au fait with the fast changing Lacemarket world of bars-with-DJs and clubs. Beyond a lads night out that featured a
jostling, better-buy-two-beers-at-a-time visit to the Living Room (Fletcher Gate) my knowledge is barely sufficient to nod sagely when some
young buck mentions The Quilted Llama, Brass Monkey or The Bluu Bar at work. The nice thing is that I'm too old to care.
Just across Fletcher Gate from the Lacemarket proper you will find Bridlesmith Gate (don't you just love these street names?). This is the
home of Nottingham's fashionistas. The city has something of a reputation for shopping - it is claimed that it's one of the best spots
outside London. Sir Paul Smith, one of England's big fashion names, is a native and his unpretentious boutique can be found on Byards
Lane. Also look out for Coast, the Office, soletrader, Muji, Ted Baker and numerous others lining this pedestrianised thoroughfare.
If you tire of shopping nirvana Bridlesmith Gate is also home to a fine example of the Café Rouge (0115 958 2230) chain. The grand
salon of this cafe/restaurant has a real Parisian feel with gleaming mirrors, dramatic high ceilings and a nice line in haughtiness (one of
these statements is a fib). Its one of our favourite places to lunch - classic French brasserie dishes done well. For a quick coffee of beer
stop the Fashion café, Slug and Lettuce and Café Uno (all on Middle Pavement) all have outside seating when the sun shines.
Word of warning - go too far south and you?ll hit the Broadmarsh Shopping Centre. To say it's in stark contrast to Bridlesmith Gate is a
gross, somewhat criminal understatement. If you'll excuse the bitchy tone, it's Trisha's waiting room (Jerry Springer-lite). There are only a
few good reasons for entering the Broadmarsh; you parked your car in its multi-storey, in pursuit of someone who stole your bag or to visit
The Caves of Nottingham (0115 924 1424. £3.75/£2.75, 10am- 5pm, Sun 11-4). A bit of history; the name Nottingham derives from the word
'Snotingham' meaning home of the cave people and the rocks that the city is built on are riddled with the former homes and workplaces of our
medieval ancestors. (Ironically, Snotingham would now make an excellent name for the city as the Trent valley acts as a channel for air
pollution making its inhabitants somewhat prone to blocked noses. And you thought it was our funny accent).
It seems quite odd to be entering an ancient cave system from the upper floor of a shopping mall but its well worth the visit (it gets you
out of the Broadmarsh at least!). Many of the uses the caves have been put to over the centuries have been recreated and it gives you an
interesting perspective on the city.
So that's the Lacemarket - industrial England reinvented to create trendy contemporary living for the aspirational. I find it a little
characterless during the day but if you're looking for a night scene...