Ljubljana Stories and Tips

A wander to admire the outdoors

A fine specimen on Dragon Bridge Photo - Ljubljana, Slovenia

As I've said, one of the best ways to spend a good, full day in Ljubljana is to wander around, admiring the architecture. The Slovenes themselves clearly recognise this as one of their main assets since the buildings are almost all pristine, with fresh paint, little graffiti, and windowboxes full of colourful flowers displayed on the many window-sills. The many interesting plaques and curiosities such as the little dragons etched into or attached onto the walls or over doors are sure to catch the eye...

A good place to start your mooch is Preseren "Square" (more of a roundabout-cum-mini-carpark really) where you can sit on the steps of France Preseren's impressive statue and admire the dusky pink Fransiscan Church and the rest of the turn-of-the-century art nouveau buildings that surround him -- the glorious old pharmacy, the former painters' home (suitably brightly coloured - though shame about the watch-maker's sign which somewhat spoils the impression). Over the Triple Bridge, take a left and go through the open-air market to the creamy yellow cathedral with a most impressive square bell-tower. Under the arch you'll find the ornate bronze door to take you inside -- it's too dark really to appreciate the famed frescos and a little ornate and gilded for my taste so I didn't linger...plus there's a lot to see outside in the sunshine.

Retracing your steps through the market, turn left away from the bridge and down Mestni trg. On the corner is the larger than life Robba Fountain (named after the Italian sculptor rather than a hoodlum) which stands outside the Magistrat (Townhall). The Townhall is currently being renovated and beautified so parts are off limits; however the splendid clocktower stands tall and proud and you can just make out the shape of a tiny golden dragon weather-vane glinting on top.

From the Townhall, carry on along the cobbles of Mestni trg and note the romantic positioning (surely no accident?) of the Romeo cafe opposite to Julia. Eventually you'll work your way to the Ljubljanica river and the very picturesque Shoemaker Bridge (actually prettiest at night). Cross to the other side and you'll quickly find yourself in the university area (admire in particular on your left Plecnik's very fine National and University Library building (the inside of which is being tarted up as at Summer 2003 though you can still wander round outside) and on your right the University buildings itself from whose grand balconies the new republic was announced...cue dancing in Kongresni trg where independence day is still celebrated. It's worth a detour behind the library building for the Illyria column on which Napoleon's face shines out in 3D gold relief. Doubling back down Gosposka ul, you'll pass the fancy Filharmonija (Opera House) before crossing Kongresni. It's worth dropping into the grandly named Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity (dating from 1726) for the fantastic Robba altar (though don't get your hopes up as it's opening hours are erratic and it closes at will without reference to a timetable). If you're a glutton for organisation, detour through the governmental/administrative area (although the buildings won't blow you away so you might think your time b better spend enjoying a cappuccino in one of the pseudo-french student coffee-bars). The other reasons to head this far east (assuming you're not headed into the Tivoli park to stretch your legs) are the museums -- the national museum, museum of modern art and national gallery. Each of these has its charms and attractions but none of them gets a mention in an entry dedicated to the great outdoors activity of wandering.

Last but definitely not least entry on the outdoors wander itinerary, if you're up to a mooch along the Ljubljanica, it's not too far east to the dragon bridge where 4 bronze, verdigris-ed specimens stand guard at either end. As I say above, the city-folk chose him long ago as mascot and icon and the ultimate Mr. Nasty versions are here -- snarling fangs and pointed spiky claws, but delicately squatting with arrow-tipped tails curled round the podium. Shame about the graffiti but nonetheless they are magnificent -- cue photo below...

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