The city of Urfa, or Sanliurfa as it is known today (the term Sanli, which means "heroic" in Turkish, was added to commemorate the heroism of its citizens in the War of Independence) is perhaps the most fascinating and historic of all the cities in southeastern Turkey. The city, deep in the heart of Turkey’s Arab south, is one that without a doubt feels like it belongs more in neighboring Syria than Turkey, and for good reason. Urfa has long been a major city in the region, one whose days as an important trade center is still reflected in the cities thriving bazaar, a veritable maze of streets, mosques, and shops almost the equivalent of nearby Aleppo. Its citizens are mostly of Arab descent, and although most citizens, due to Turkey’s strict language laws (although they are loosening) speak Turkish on the street, most of them claim Arabic as their mother tongue.
It is a deeply historic city as well as a deeply religious one,. Locals call it "the city of prophets," and for good reason. Urfa not only lays claim to being the site of Job’s suffering, but the birthplace of Abraham, who is commemorated in a lovely park complex filled with mosques and rivers of carp. Many guidebooks and Turks will probably tell you that Urfa is the most conservative town in Turkey. I don’t buy it. It probably the most religious town, but I don’t believe that it is the most conservative. Most people just think it is because of its decidedly Arab feel and because of the numerous Iranian pilgrims that flood the cities holy sights. To me, though, it does not feel nearly as conservative as cities in the Anatolian heartland, like Kayseri or Sivas. There people seem conservative, but in Urfa, they just seem religious (which does carry an element of conservatism), but in general, the people seem much more open.
The center of attraction in Urfa is the absolutely lovely mosque complex and park surrounding Abraham’s cave. This oasis of green in the urban sprawl of modern Urfa is nothing short of charming on a sunny spring day (by summer, Urfa’s legendary heat makes it a bit harder). The park complex is built around a series of mosques, some new, some old, in what used to be part of the Old City of Urfa. Canals full of waterwheels and carp flow through the complex, and as tempting as it may be to feed them, do not. Signs (in Turkish only) warn visitors against "feeding the sacred carp." While I was there, one group of Iranian women, unable to understand the sign, started dumping in bread. Before even two pieces fell, the guard was rushing towards them, blowing on his whistle to get them to stop. The funny thing is that I know for a fact that 3 years ago, you were able to feed the fish without getting an earful of whistle, as everyone in town did it. The ban on feeding seems to stem less from the sanctity of the fish, but rather from their exponential population growth.
The highlight of the complex is the Abraham Mosque, built around the supposed cave of his birth. You are free to enter the mosque (a small donation is suggested), and once inside, you will find a small prayer room where you can touch the rock wall of the cave and admire dedicated worshippers bent over in solemn prayer.
Keeping watch over the mosque of Abraham is the city’s citadel, a large structure dating back to Byzantine times. You are free to walk up, and the views are well worth it, but the structure itself isn’t spectacular.
What most visitors to Urfa are most interested in after the mosques are the bazaars. While not the biggest in the Middle East, they are still large enough to lose yourself in them for an hour or two, and you will still be able to find plenty of handicrafts. It’s proximity to Syria allows Urfan traders to get the hands on a lot of stuff you won’t find in Istanbul, the best perhaps being the varieties of olive-oil soap from Aleppo.
Once you have had your fill of spirituality and shopping, it is time to take part in perhaps Urfa’s best offering, food. Urfa is famous all over Turkey for having some of the best food in Turkey, the standard favorite being the eponymous Urfa Kebab, lamb kebab made with eggplant, tomatoes, and peppers (see my entry on food for more info). You can get Urfa Kebab back in Istanbul, but it’s not the same. Down in Urfa, the spices are what make the dish.