The area of Bouches du Rhone is not large, but it has more than its share of Roman artifacts and sites. There are a number in excellent condition, representative of various forms of Roman public engineering and architecture. They are well worth the time and this article should point you in the direction of the masterpieces and perhaps save some footwork.
There are two major amphitheatres . . . one in Nimes and the other in Arles. The first permanent Roman amphitheatre was built in 29 B.C. and in no time, they were springing up all over. The most famous of them is the Colosseum in Rome which sat 50,000 spectators. It had 80 arched entrance openings which fed the populace into a wide corridor which surrounded the building and from which ran stairs to the various sections. Similar circular corridors were found at each level and it was possible to empty such a building in minutes. Provincial amphitheatres were built on the same design, but on a smaller scale.
The amphitheatre in Nimes is Les Arenes, built around the year 100 A.D. and designed to seat 24,000 spectators. It is the best preserved amphitheatre in France, or perhaps anywhere, as it retains its upper story intact, unlike Arles. It was originally used for gladiatorial combats and like the Colosseum, it could stage naval battles. It is in superb shape and is used year-round for performances although at one point, before its restoration, it was used as slum housing. The amphitheatre in Arles, also referred to as Les Arenes, was built at about the same time, or perhaps shortly thereafter, and although it is slightly larger than the building in Nimes, it sat approximately 21,000 spectators. It served very much the same function but during the medieval period it became a fortress and four towers were added to it. Three of the towers still stand and afford an excellent view of the town. It is still used in summer for bullfights and now seats 12,000.
The premiere theatre is at Orange. The Roman theatre was built in the Greek style, with most of the action taking place in the orchestra in front of the skene, a permanent backdrop. The orchestra was surrounded by a half-circle of rising seating, the auditorium. Many Greek theatres were built into hillsides . . . an effective and economical form of construction. Roman theatres were both free-standing and hillside types . . . but free-standing theatres, like the Theatre Antique in Arles, did not survive in good condition. The theatre at Orange is a combination of the two and is the best example of a Roman theatre perhaps anywhere in the world. The construction behind the stage is several stories high, the better, the Romans thought, to amplify sound. The wall still contains mosaics and a copy of a statue of the Emperor Augustus. An amphitheatre is a marvel but an intact Roman theatre such as this demonstrates the engineering genius of Rome married to the arts. Two great ways to see this theatre are from the hill above it or attending one of the concerts that are held here in summer. While you are in Orange, you may as well have a look at the Arc de Triomphe as it is a good example of what one should look like and it is in surprisingly good shape.
If you want to see a really good Roman temple, you’ll find the best-preserved temple in France, and in the world, in Nimes. The Maison Carre was built during the reign of the Emperor Augustus. It has survived as a meeting hall, private residence and even a stable. There is nothing dramatic about this little Greek-style beauty with its Corinthian columns except the fact that it has survived in such brilliant condition. The only similar site that I can think of in France is the Temple of Augustus and Livy, built by the Emperor Claudius, in the city of Vienne.
These are pieces of Rome. The best example of a Roman town in this area is at St-Remy de Provence . . . the Roman town of Glanum. Now, I’ll admit, I haven’t been to Glanum in twenty-five years, but it drew me for what it was and of course, I happen to have majored in ancient history, so I couldn’t resist. I’m not sure if I would go there today, but I must admit that I was thrilled to walk on stones and imagine who might have preceded me two thousand years ago. There is a triumphal arch here and a mausoleum, but mostly, you have to want to walk with the ghosts of the past. There is little here for you if you don’t care about history.
But there is a place, the best place in the whole area… the place you will visit whether or not you visit any of the other places. It is the Pont du Gard near Nimes. Since it is the best of the Roman sites of any kind, in the area, it is also the most "touristique". The Pont du Gard is part of a three-tiered aqueduct as it crosses the Gard River. The aqueduct originally ran from Uzes to Nimes, a distance of 25 kilometers. There are several views here. It is amazing from the river (you can swim here), you can walk it or you can see it from an elevated position. It is one of the busiest tourist sites in France, so don’t expect solitude. There are exhibits here so it has become a family site with activities for the kids and lots of educational opportunities, but for me, it is what it is . . . amazing.
Well, that’s the short list. I admit, it’s not complete, there are the odd ruins or parts of things that weren’t pulled down, quarried or blown up, but the list contains those things you should really have a look at in Roman Provence.