Stirling Castle is a must-see. But on the other hand, at the risk of a pun, I found Stirling sterile; as you can see, I have really mixed feelings about it. The castle rock is a magnificent site, looming over the town, and it’s probably been fortified a number of times before the 12th century, when actual castle building seems to have started here. It has been a royal castle since that time, although much of what you’ll see is 15th century and later.
As castles go, it’s an impressive fortification and has seen its share of war – the initial phases of the wars for independence in the 13th century and Bruce’s campaign in the early 14th century. Robert Bruce saw Stirling and other castles as symbols of English oppression and razed Stirling after the battle at Bannockburn. When the English invaded some years later, they would start rebuilding the site, and from that time on, construction would continue through the 14th and 15th centuries. The castle would again see siege in 1651 by the Parliamentary army, when it was taken, and again in 1746, during the Jacobite rebellion, when the castle resisted the Stewart forces.
Entry to the castle is £8 (2005, adult), plus there’s a required £2 for parking. Guided tours leave regularly from just inside the second gate, through which you will pass. In the outer close, you will be made familiar with the construction of the castle, some of its history, and, if it’s not foggy and raining, as it was when we visited, you will be able to enjoy the views over the countryside.
Passing into the inner close, you are surrounded by the castle’s principle buildings. The Great Hall, the pale yellow building that seems to shine in the sunlight, has just passed through a 35-year renovation. For many years, it served as an army barracks and additional floors were built into its interior, but now it is restored. Originally built around 1500, it is a huge rectangular space with five massive fireplaces, a totally restored roof, and windows high in the walls hung with draperies. At one end, there is a dais with a long refectory table, but otherwise, the room is quite unornamented.
Next to the Great Hall is the Chapel Royal, which was built on the site in 1594. It features rounded windows and doors reminiscent of Renaissance Italy and is a large space, but again, there is little to see here. The new timber ceiling with its modern lighting has a more modern Scandinavian feel to it than anything else. Next to it, in the King’s Old Building, which was late 15th century and badly damaged by fire in 1855, you will find the museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. As regimental museums go, this is a good one.
Finally, in the Inner Close, there is the Palace, built by James V in the 16th century. It is in the process of a full archeological restoration and has been stripped to bare stone. When its reconstruction is done, it will be redone to the time of its original construction and be furnished.
There is more to see… the kitchens have been redone well and there are gun batteries and some displays, but as I said, the major parts of the castle are a bit sterile, rather bare.
Your ticket to the castle includes admission to Argyll’s Lodgings, just down the street. I recommend you go. It is the 17th-century home of Archibald, the ninth Earl of Argyll. You will see a number of furnished rooms, and it’s worth the small amount of time that it will take.