Our first trip was to the mountain village of Panagia - bus for 1 Euro - about 20 minutes from Limenas. It was a village of narrow streets, overhanging balconies, and an historic church. In the centre is a well with very refreshing ice-cold mountain water. We then hired a car and spent a day touring the east of the island past Panagia. The spectacular Monastery of the Archangel Michael is built right into the cliff side, with great views along the coast. It is necessary to be dressed appropriately for a visit, but if you are scantily clad, modest wraps are provided. Farther on is the lovely bay at Aliki, bounded by four tavernas (see restaurant recommend). From there on the twisting coastal road to the small towns/resorts of Potos and Limenaria. Inland, a visit to Theologos beckoned, as awe drove past sheep and goat herds into the mountains. Time seems to have stood still in the village with its quaint old houses and squares. Outside each taverna, the locals debated the issues of the day. A second car trip took us down the west side through Rachoniou, Prinus, Sotiros, Kalichari, and on to Skala Maries - each village with its own character and clusters of fishing boats in the pretty harbours. The last day with the car, we sampled real Greek life by visiting the market at Prinus. There was colourful stalls with local produce, the ubiquitous clothes stalls, and several carpet sellers. Often throughout the island we would hear loud speaker vans giving the impression that perhaps there was an election pending - but in each case it was vendors announcing their wares, be it fruit and vegetables or carpets. There is no crime on the island. We felt very safe, except one evening, when we were chased by two young lads. Our apprehension was entirely misplaced, as all they wanted to do was present us with a couple of Souvlakis (kebabs)--a typical example of Greek hospitality.