THE TRANG ISLES – HEAVEN WITH THE HEAT TURNED UP
A Travel Photographer's Guide
by Dave Underwood
Planning a holiday? Fancy a tropical paradise with knockout scenery where you can do everything or nothing with like-minded travellers or just your own shadow for company? A place where the fantasy changes every day?
Well, it'll cost you.
Around USD40 a day, actually. If you want to live it up a bit, that is. That's what we paid for a month's holiday on Thailand's Andaman Coast; about USD1000 each, and we're not backpackers.
Paradise has a new name and there's more than 1,000 kilometres to explore, much of it still unaffected by Thailand's tourism tentacles. The Andaman Coast is Thailand's western seaboard, stretching from Myanmar to Malaysia and our journey began in Phuket, Thailand's Pearl of the South -- resort central for those big on consumerism and short on culture.
Now don't get me wrong, Phuket has enough to keep the traveller occupied for a while, but you'll have to look for it. This sanitised mecca for sun worshippers, newly weds and package tourists exists almost everywhere yet rarely succeeds in being anywhere. So, after finding our feet, we headed south in search of a more authentic experience. Sure enough, in Trang we found Soul Food in the Deep South, but we were totally unprepared for its nearby offshore treasures.
Please note that although the images in this album have been compressed to maximise loading speed, the entire collection may take a few minutes to load on slower connections. These pictures are hosted on servers external to IgoUgo. Please be patient; any problems viewing the album may not be related to this site.
The purpose of this journal is twofold. Aside from showcasing the largely unspoilt wonders of Trang's islands and the beauty that awaits visitors to Thailand's southern treasures, I've included some tips for keen amateur photographers that may help you get more from your next travel experience.
Enjoy the album!
"Local advice is the best advice"
Trang is a lively, rich and friendly town, built on a successful rubber industry, and now home to more than 50,000 people. It's also handy to a group of nearby islands generally unaffected by tourism and, consequently, not listed in many guidebooks. Our problem was deciding which islands to visit, so we applied one of the reliable laws of successful travel: When you want some good advice, then ask a local.
Remaining faithful to the law we departed for Ko Sukorn, a small island to the south, which was highly recommended by "Happy Hans" who, with his wife Ani, owned Trang's only secondhand bookshop. Hans' passion for the island ran a close second to his liking for the exceptional local beer, so we considered it reliable advice indeed.
Don't forget to use black-and-white when you think it's appropriate. It's often a valuable way to present portraits and can add a new and interesting dimension to your album or travel portfolio.
"Luxury on a budget"
Our longtail boat glided onto Sukorn's northern beach and we climbed into the back of a Toyota pickup, one of the island's four vehicles. It was barely a five-minute trip to Sukorn Beach Bungalows on the south coast.
A small wooden bridge led over lily ponds painted pink and green in the morning sun, then through a coconut plantation to a collection of bungalows – maybe ten – arranged in two rows to face the ocean. Out front was a one-kilometre long stretch of clean, flat sand and not a person in sight.
"The Land of Smiles"
Our bungalow boasted a large cold water bathroom, sheltered patio overlooking the sea, and was tastefully decorated with furniture crafted from the island's timber. Electricity was limited to a few hours each evening and the bungalows were equipped with fans to provide relief when there was no sea breeze.
Adjacent the bungalows was the main building, a small traditional style structure with an attached thatch-roofed restaurant fronting the sand. We sat with two local girls, children of one of the employees, who were curious to meet a couple of new travellers. Their shy but openly warm and friendly manner could have been an advertisement for Thailand, the Land of Smiles.
When photographing people you meet, try and take the time to engage them before asking for a picture – you'll be rewarded with a more relaxed and natural pose. Close down the aperture to blur the background and use a portrait setting, usually a focal length of around 80-135mm, to get the kindest results and allow you to step back from your subject.
"Fishing and rubber farming pay the bills"
2,500 Thai Muslims live in four tiny villages spread across the eight-by-four kilometre island. Ko Sukorn's local name is actually Ko Muu, meaning "pig island", which is curious given the persuasion of its inhabitants.
Fishing and rubber farming are the main industries, and it's widely acknowledged that this is the home of Thailand's finest watermelons – a reputation we were pleased to confirm.
Environmental portraits, like this one of the rubber farmers, are perfect for creative monochrome treatment. This is a selenium tone applied to a black-and-white conversion using manipulation of the red and blue colour curves.
"Squid and Rice; two of the island staples"
Our days were spent exploring the villages and beaches. Vivid rice fields fringed by forested hills of rubber farms gave way to coastal coconut plantations and the occasional haphazard collection of fishermen’s houses. Sometimes there would be racks of squid lying out to dry in the wet heat, arranged in curiously uniform rows like a kind of seafood mosaic. It seemed that wherever we went there was a photo opportunity, the colours, shapes and textures encouraging our creativity.
"Relaxing comes easy here"
One of our favourite beaches is at the southern end of the island. It’s a one-hour walk that we liked to do early in the morning before it got too hot. The swimming is good here and there is a shop in the small village that sells basic supplies – unrefrigerated, of course.
We would sit and share a hand of a dozen small, sweet bananas, freshly sliced watermelon, and guzzle a large bottle of water for less than a dollar. All this would be generally followed by a swim and a chat with the local fishermen before returning to the bungalows and planning the rest of the day.
Always stay on the lookout for evocative statements of a location. Images like these scream tropical! and the panorama format used for subjects like the group of longtails emphasises their shape.
"Paradise Found"
Back at the bungalows we would rarely have to share space with more than a few people. On our patio one night we were marvelling at another vivid sunset when I was sure I had discovered the definition of paradise.
"Look," I said to Karen, marching off to the beach, back again, and then to the restaurant.
"Fifteen paces to the sand, thirty-one to the water, and eighteen to the restaurant."
"Wow," said Karen. "We need to find you a book to read. You’re dangerous when you run out of things to do."
Photographing sunsets is easier than you might think. Do two things right and you’ll usually get a decent shot. Firstly, above all else, keep the horizon straight. Then spot meter for just left or right of the sun. This way the sun won’t blow out and you’ll retain that lovely colour.
"Day tripping in style"
Instead of finding another book, we grabbed a longtail and a navigator and opted for a day trip to the surrounding islands. Most are easily accessible and their deserted shores are a haven for beachcombers and snorkellers.
First up, around an hour away, is Koh Lao Lieng, which is actually two islands. There’s a wonderful beach here at the southern end of the largest island and a small temporary fishing village. It’s a natural amphitheatre and the surrounding cliffs shelter vast caves. Some of them lead up to ledges far above the water, providing diving practice for the adventurous.
Sometimes its easy to get carried away with vast and beautiful landscapes. A wide angle shot often cannot do the scene justice. Try focusing on a small, high impact area of the scene for the most atmospheric results.
"Heaven with the heat turned up"
Thirty minutes from Ko Lao Lieng is Ko Takieng, a tiny island with pure white powder coves on its eastern side above the water and 100-foot visibility below it. Schools of parrot fish teemed around us as we explored the coral ledges and shallow ocean floor.
Apparently it’s these fish that are responsible for the impossibly fine and white sand on the beaches here; it’s a waste product from the coral they consume.
"The little things"
I lay on the talcum-like sand while Karen combed the beach for treasures cast aside by the tide, surrounded by a paradise accidentally discovered on a whim and chance conversation with a local in Trang four days ago. Thank God for Happy Hans and Ani. I must thank them when we get back into town.
Karen returned triumphant, a collection of tiny treasures in tow and we discussed the merits of traditional noodles and fresh garlic and pepper squid that our restaurant had made its signature dish. Hard work, this travelling caper.
No doubt about it, this really is heaven with the heat turned up.Don’t forget the little things – they’re often just as crucial in defining a destination. Switch to macro and grab some colourful close-ups.
You've reached the end of another Ozzy-Dave Virtual Visual Vacation
All words and images ©2005 Dave Underwood
Visit my website at Windlewood Creative Solutions
See my travel images at the OZImages Stock Photography Site