The mountainous regions of Guatemala contain some of the last pockets of traditional Mayan communities, including the Cuchumatanes mountains in western Guatemala. While many Mayan women in Guatemala wear traditional clothing, the Todos Santos area is one where the men also wear the traditional garb of red pants, various hand-woven shirts, and flat-topped straw hats. The women’s clothing was elaborate as well, and included sashes that doubled as purses and colorful hair wraps.
In addition to seeing the colorful and detailed woven clothing, you can also purchase high quality weavings at good prices in Todos Santos. On every porch of every house, women are weaving on backstrap looms. It is said that the women are pretty competitive in their weaving. It is a true art form, one of the few that haven’t been lost, at least in this region. The women’s cooperative at Casa Familiar sells the weavings of many of the local women, and has a great selection. You can even arrange to take weaving lessons from one of the women, just don’t expect to leave with much more than a belt unless you are staying for a long time!
It is said that the Mayan calendar is still remembered and partially observed in Todos Santos. Sheep herding is common. I have a particularly vivid image in my head of a young girl, in stereotypical sheepherder garb, patiently and peacefully tending her flock on a steep and rocky hillside. It was a perfect picture, really, not to be disturbed by an actual camera, but to be kept in my memory forever.
Now that I’ve touted the glory of the old ways in Todos Santos, I have to confess that the area is far from pure. Those looking for an intense ethnic experience might be disappointed to see the pick-up trucks and baseball hats worn by the kids in additional to their hand-woven clothing. The baggy-pant style that we see on young people has infiltrated the area as well, but the fascinating part is that the boys have their mothers make their traditional woven trousers to be shaped baggy with urban-style pockets in the back. Thank goodness belly T-shirts haven’t invaded the place!
Another non-traditional invasion has been, like in the rest of Guatemala, the extreme popularity of the Evangelical Church. In order to save our souls, the Evangelical followers purchase very loud and far-reaching broadcast systems. Then they publicly announce their worship sessions, thinking that they are helping us to be saved even without attending services. It is a well intentioned, but annoying, phenomenon throughout Guatemala. Seriously, you can hear these guys for miles and miles.
A story has circulated among travelers about a tourist-killing incident in Guatemala, where a mob of local people killed a Japanese woman who they thought was going to steal their children. This is a true story, and in fact occurred in Todos Santos. The incident was preceded by a prediction by the Evangelicals that an evil spirit was going to show up in the village and steal the babies. Lo and behold, a huge black bus, filled with Japanese tourists, many of them dressed in black, shows up shortly after the prediction. They were, (dare I say) of course, taking copious photos and approaching the local people – probably well inside their comfort zone – when the attack occurred. I do not feel there is any reason to fear the people of Todos Santos, but it reinforces the obvious – think before you act, and try to understand the local culture and language before you arrive.
While in Todoa Santos, we stayed at Casa Familiar (see separate entry). We thought it was a fine place. There are not many places to eat either. I didn’t find anything to rave about, but the breakfasts at Casa Familiar were quite good, and it seemed that the local people really enjoyed Comedor Katy. The market building has really cheap food in the upstairs part.
One great resource for travelers in town is Rebecca’s Place. I met Rebecca while staying a Hotel Gobernador in Huehuetenengo. I had been thinking of going farther up into the mountains, and Rebecca helped me make up my mind to go for sure. She came to Guatemala four years prior as a traveler taking Spanish classes in Todos Santos (three schools – no reservations required). And she just loved it so much that she never left. Now she runs a used bookstore and small café. She can help with any questions you may have, and you can pick up a book in the process. She has more western-type food to relieve any cravings you might have. When the temperature drops to near-freezing, it is a great place to have a hot chocolate and play a game of Scrabble.