St. Thomas is shopping capital of the Caribbean. St. John known for its National Park. Yet in numerous conversations, ranging from top tourism officials and owners to average locals, there seemed to be one common concern: What is the niche of St. Croix?
I guess I'm still missing something. Current promotions of the rich historical and natural treasures obviously doesn't seem to be enough for drawing travelers at a rate that sustains the local economy. They want to coin a recognizable identity "catch phrase" which will increase tourism they depend upon. Unfortunately, there are too many other determining, stifling factors they don't have abilities to control.
Get there...if you can!
From NYC, if I could find a $225 round-trip airfare to San Juan, nearby St. Thomas was guaranteed to be at least $400; St. Croix even pricier. Instability of the monopolized air market, by American and American Eagle, has all but dictated the number of travelers who come for extended stays solely on the island.
TWA, which was in the midst of developing a competitive Caribbean hub, was obviously absorbed by American. Continental and Delta discontinued flights into St. Croix because of inability to fill planes, or gain a profit since passengers opted to use mileage award tickets to offset otherwise costly fares - even in the off-season. Currently, U.S. Air is the only other airline offering service in/out of the island; local speculations causes one to wonder how long they'll continue.
This has admittedly left resorts/hotels unable to secure deals which include airfares in all-inclusive packages. American doesn't seem interested; you need no further proof than scanning newspaper's Travel sections. There's enticing offers to other islands; rarely to never St. Croix. While local packages are competitive with other islands, they end up appearing rather costly without airfare included.
Their realities we take for granted
Regardless of how much time I'd previously spent in the Caribbean, this trip enlightened how limited my defining experiences/expectations had been. First and foremost, I'm a declared Budget Traveler! While inexpensive options dwindle away annually, I can still justify frequent visits to Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, or even the cheap package to Jamaica.
Looking out for my own interests, I thought I'd answered the call for labeling St. Croix's niche that could keep a steady flow of year-round visitors - 'Why not make St. Croix the budget island'? I was quickly told Caribbean tourists don't come looking for or expecting to go cheap. My defense was then price-related aspects were exactly what St. Croix needed: Capture the budget traveler market which has virtually been alienated from other island destinations! How foolish my uneducated perspective was.
I was obviously overlooking my island time, except for Bahamas daytrips, had been limited to countries with the largest land masses. With that space comes more access to locally generated resources. Based on supply and demand, smaller islands couldn't lower costs...little alone go "budget", even if they wanted.
Daily island life is more expensive than most conceive; even with conservative methods of intake/usage. Turning marginal profits within the tourism industry, where guests expect the best/ most of everything, only drives prices higher; especially the smaller the islands. Utility costs are outrageous; the precious commodity of water valued/priced highest, are easiest squandered by tourists.
St. Croix is fortunate to have more productive farmlands than most Lesser Antilles and Windwards, but sustaining locals is one thing. Keeping up with gluttonous tendencies of tourists is quite different. Too many basic staples and necessities have to be imported, which ultimately dictates cost.
A perfect example is the night I winced at dinner after my first rum and coke sip. The proprietor, noticing my reaction, frankly eluded it's more cost effective to fill glasses with the inexpensive local product rather than costly imported coke - I guess like killing two birds with one stone!
No Longer In-PORT-ant
Wandering Christiansted on a sunny afternoon in mid-June, I REALLY appreciated that basically all I saw were locals! I normally chalk this up to the off-season. Sadly, I'd been informed otherwise.
Another major setback recently occurred when all cruise lines ceased to include the island as a port of call. It seems they are being unjustly punished as the crucial pawn amongst powers which be. St. Croix had no taxation entrance fee for passengers coming ashore, unlike the most popular of ALL Caribbean cruise destinations in St. Thomas where taxation fees crept upward annually. From what I best surmised, the bottom-political line boiled down to this: Stop heavy taxation of passengers in St. Thomas, or else!
Speculations were wide-spread as to what would come from this devastating blow. Even during our brief time in town, I overheard employed shop staff discussing pending fates, as well as locals passed on the streets; perhaps temporarily unemployed.
Summer cruises brought two or three ships to Frederiksted weekly with thousands of passengers coming ashore to disperse themselves and their dollars throughout the island. They ate, shopped, and paid entrance fees to attractions. No one knew this more than Sweeney Toussaint of St. Croix Safari Tours, who provided taxi service and buses for organized tours. His parked fleet doesn't pay bills OR staff who drive them.
Uncertainty only fueled discussions to find St. Croix's niche and hurriedly restore economic security. Efforts had hatched one potential golden egg that could end up rather rotten. Speculative plans call for a second casino, but would this further usurp locals' dwindling income, a proven fact during times of crisis?
Despite probing attempts, I never found animosity or jealousy towards St. Thomas/St. John, obviously prospering year-round. Their close proximity, compared to St. Croix's mere distance, had caused separate station branches within government, tourism, and other civil factions. Yet I was assured they proudly work together promoting best interests of the United States Virgin Islands. Ok, but I still couldn't help recalling the Cinderella fairytale; even if we weren't talking about mean, ugly stepsisters.
Survivors With Style and Grace
No matter how bleak the immediate economic future of St. Croix may appear, Michener's historical accounts of the Caribbean only reconfirmed one thing: Through slavery, conquerings, poverty, hurricanes, and any number of other devastating events, people of the islands have developed unique character as survivors! The Crucians don't need a niche to label who they are, what their island has.
Within minutes of arriving and pulling out of the parking lot, I recognized the appealing qualities not so easily found on the other two Virgins. Evidence of everyday lives, not a barrage of implanted tourism industries, were still what dominated. I immediately felt at home in this, which I accurately "labeled", The Common Man's Island.
36 hours was not enough on St. Croix; one week with a packed agenda likely doesn't allow rushing through all the attractions. But when it comes to sharing in the lives of people that are different than ourselves, I don't know that it's possible to speculate time within the concept of "enough". That's why even without the invitations to come back, I will someday return to this, my favorite of the Virgin Islands.