Budget conscious travelers won't go hungry in Panama even if food expenses are at the bottom of priority lists. Feasting on three squares a day has real potential, and if ever paying more than $4 for any spread, you've gone to the wrong place! Options are minimal for those looking to have finer dining experiences, where additional costs have more to do with location, atmosphere and presentation than quality and portions of basically the same types of foods. Otherwise, never has my proven formula paid-off with such savings:
Look for the Locals + Live like the Locals = Twice the Cultural Experience at Half the Cost
In a country where minimum wage is still $1.25 an hour, it was almost a challenge to load-up a plate that broke the $3 price-range. The bulk of local restaurants are designed around cafeteria-style buffets, where patrons slide trays along the rail while drooling at the endless selections laid-out before them. Popular eateries are open 6am to 11pm. When it comes to Panamanian cooking, it's middle of the road for typical Latin American cuisine; not heavily seasoned as in the Caribbean, but certainly not as bland like found in northern Central America.
Breakfast options center around eggs, usually scrambled or hard-boiled, and versions of chorizo sausage or weiners; grilled, smoked, or boiled in a flavorful red sauce. Thick slices of a lite white cheese in the mornings are perfect with items available at all meals. Hojaldre is the fried equivalent to bread, which can also be dusted with sugar like a donut.
Breakfast; $1.75
Other all-day favorites are empanadas; spicy meats, fruit or cheese fried inside cornmeal patties, or carimañola with similar fillings inside ground and boiled yuca cakes. Another new find worth trying at least once are bolitas de carne; large ground-beef meatballs that are seasoned, and a little dry by themselves. Ask for a bottle of ketchup. Whatever they add made this one of the sweetest and most flavorful condiments I've ever tasted, and was something to get excited about!
For lunch and dinner, beef or chicken concoctions dominate entree selections, and are often available for breakfast, too. Seasoned pork roast was a rare treat compared to frequently found chuletas (pork chops). And, there's always at least one fish selection; typically sectioned white fish, either fried or boiled, and with plenty of small bones to watch out for. Seafoods, including shrimp, crab and lobster dishes, are also usually available by order, and garlic-grilled trout (trucha) was always worth the extra wait as some of the very best I've ever had.
Dinner of side items; $3
Vegetarians will enjoy the basic staple accompaniments including rices (colored has meat), beans, and other legume dishes. Pasta selections were also common. Every now and then, mashed potatoes and a jazzed-up potato salad were available. Vegetables, unless stewed with meats or pastas, and roughage greens and salads are hard to find which can cause constipation based on the standard diet. An abundance of fresh fruits are only available from grocery stores and street vendors.
Ceviche is supposedly Panama's "must-try" specialty of either raw shrimp (camarones) or corvina pickled in the acidic juices of lime and onion. ( * Note that in Panama, corvina is the term for a popular white fish; not seabass). While the local ceviche wasn't nearly as flavorfully loaded as like found in Venezuela, it's still something I recommend trying. Availabilities are usually listed as appetizers, but it's more commonly found in bars as a lite meal or snack. Typically, a serving of the corvina cost $2, shrimp $2.50.
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In Latin America, the greatest Spanish language variances involve food terms. Lonely Planet has a seperate Food Vocabulary section worth taking a look at. The bonus of cafeteria-style dining is to see what looks good without needing to know what it's called. "¿Qué es esto?" (what is this), is a helpful phrase if able to understand responses. Otherwise, just smile and point.* In addition, what
LP lists as buffets are not to be confused with the gluttonous all-you-can-eat versions. They're once-through-the-line cafeterias.
When dining in cafeteria-style eateries, popularity usually insures foods stay fresh with ongoing replenishments. However sometimes during off-hours, meat selections look a little dried out which compomises tenderness. Restaurant employees won't mind when asking if a fresh batch is coming anytime soon. Otherwise, choose something else.
Long-haul bus rides always include stops at roadside plazas which have large cafeterias. Keep this in mind as a convenient dining option if driving in a rental car.
Panaderias are the bakery shops you'll likely smell before you see. Large servings of cakes, cobblers, sweet breads, and dessert-style goodies are always priced under $1, and guaranteed better than what you'll find in restaurants. They're also great as breakfast alternatives.
Shunning fast-food restaurants at home, little alone while on the road, Panama does have a chain worth mentioning. Pío Pío is the much-improved local version of KFC; great for picking-up snacks for the road, or in-house dining. Flavorful fried chicken, available by the piece, bucket or value combo meals, appears expensive compared to loaded platters with odds and ends. 4 chicken livers (hígados) or 8 hearts (corazons or chichas) go for 35¢. Empanadas, carimañolas and hojaldres range from 20¢ to 40¢ each. Rather than paying 85¢ for a small portion of fries, try the large strips of fried yucca; 4 for 15¢ Throw-in a large fresh fruit juice, and still escape for under $3.
Beyond the always interesting browses found in foreign supermarkets, Panama has a couple of major chains that will likely come in handy at some point. 99-Cent is equivalent to Wal-Mart Super Centers with a bit of everything, and is the commonly found grocery store in Panama City. The most convenient one is in the Albrook Mall, across from the National Transportation Center. Prices are higher than the name suggests, but still cheap. They're open from 9:30am to 9:30pm. Romero was the most prevalent supermarket found in outlying areas; open 24-hours though alcohol sales stop at 11pm.
Both of these stores had inexpensive in-house panaderias with available seating,. and 99-cent also has a deli and limited cafeteria buffet as a potential dining alternative. * Best Buy -- 20-pack assortment bags with small packages of chips, cookies, granola bars, and crackers for $1.89; great for the hotel room, hiking trail, or when making long-hauls.
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Bottoms-Up on BeveragesPanamanians are proud to announce that American influence brought them the first potable tap water in Latin America. Not only bacteria free, it tastes good! In stores, bottled water is about the most expensive cold beverage. Unless digestive systems are prone to sensitivity, conveniently refill bottles as you go.
Panama's off-shore islands, including Bocas del Toro, are the only places where tap water is undrinkable.Coke products out-number Pepsi, but with so many fruit juices, soft-drinks take a back-seat. Whether fresh-squeezed or processed, expect some of the richest, sweetest blends that can also be whipped into inexpensive fruit smoothies called a
batido. The country's other signature drink is coffee, grown on highland plantations. Cups average 35¢ in eataries, but specialty coffee bars are growing in popularity, with prices you'd expect paying.
Panama produces several brands of rum, but their unique homebrew is called
Seco; a clear liquor distilled from sugarcane. First whiffs conjur Everclear flashbacks, but harshness fades
too quickly when mixed with fruit juices. Pints go for $2.50; half-pints $1.50. Convenient "taste tests" come with
Seco Ice; premixed blends sold in cans for $1.00.
Panama has four types of local beers:
Soberana, Panamá, Balboa, and Atlas, with the later being more preferred as a heavier, more flavorful lager. In local bars and cantinas, pitchers cost $2.50, bottles are 40¢, and popular promotions include three bottles for $1. Beer prices rise in stores and restaurants.
Between extreme heat and physical activities that induce profuse sweating, dehydration readily lurks! Mass-intake of water and juices should exceed caffeine and alcohol consumption for any given day.
Panama has an open-container law against drinking in public that is strictly enforced.
Smoking is banned in all public places including open-air restaurants and bars.
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Remember Venezuela?If so inclined, wafting scents propose that legendary Panama Red and Gold Bud are readily available, guaranteed to leave one speechless! Hell, I'd just checked into a room and was appreciating the aroma therapy, when owner knocked and asked if I was smoking? Expected reprimand turned out to be disappointment when they found nothing to share. Casual attitudes are further reconciled by widespread legalization propoganda. Marijuana storage boxes, pipe-holders and trays dominated hand-crafted selections in airport giftshops.
Long-haul travelers reported $25 an ounce, and were eager to share like there was no tomorrow. Passing around something with fellow travelers is one thing; doing so with locals quite the other. Especially in drug-scene-driven places like Bocas del Toro, laced joints and spiked drinks are common for preying upon unsuspecting travelers. You've been advised!