Opatija sits at the head of of a 12-kilometer promenade (or Lungomare) that stretches down the Kvarner coastline to Lovran. Our hotel, the Grand Hotel Kvarner, is practically the "starting point" for this picturesque promenade, which winds along Opatija's gorgeous coastline and parallels the town's main drag, Marsala Tita. In town, the promenade is wide and lined with trees and street vendors selling food ("American" popcorn and ice cream) crafts (lace tablecloths, paintings, traditional crafts) and souvenirs (postcards, beach towels, and t-shirts, etc...). The public beaches - chaise longue-covered concrete terraces and tidal pools - are all accessible from the walkway. During the day, the promenade is peopled with bathers seeking respite from the sun. At night, the bench-lined promenade comes alive: music from the hotel dance halls fills the air, street vendors display their wares, and large groups of locals and vactioners take in the night air and the festivities. As in Italy, strolling is a sort of Croatian national past-time, and the beautiful vistas and colorful atmosphere make walking on the Lungomare a real treat.
As you head south on the promenade out of Opatija toward Icici, the walkway becomes narrower as it climbs up gentle hills. Beautiful villas can be seen above and below the pathway. The promenade widens again as it enters the next town.
We visited Opatija in mid-September, after the tourist season has officially ended. The promenade was crowded, but not too heavily. We came out for a stroll every night, and thoroughly enjoyed the cool night air and the energy of the people. Opatija's laid-back, festival atmosphere is most easily felt while walking the promenade at night.