Czech statuary
Anyone who has seen Charles the Fourth at the end of the Charles Bridge in Prague may agree that Czech statuary has a unique expressiveness. Sometimes the mouth is open, and the nose has an eagle quality that suggests character. The effect is that the form seems to have something to say, and I usually imagine that it is, "Hark! Hark!" Whatever it is, figures appear to want out of that cast or chiseled form so that they may come alive!
Olomouc’s fountains
Around Olomouc, a center of Catholicism, statues of saints and mythical figures may have different expressions. The city known for its baroque fountains and columns is centered around two ancient squares: Upper Square and Lower Square. (Lower Square is actually higher geographically.) The two squares and a hilly street between them have nine fountains and columns every visitor must see, but elaborate statuary fountains do not stop there.
Bishops’ and Archbishops’ Palaces and gardens reveal more to those who have time to see them, and, for this purpose, a walking tour is advised.
Arion Fountain
Old Town’s Upper Square is only one block from Hotel Gemo. Walking toward it each day, the first thing I saw was the Arion Fountain, so whimsical and delightful that many people prefer it to the World Heritage Holy Trinity Column. Arion was a Greek singer, poet, and cithara (lyre) player who was thrown overboard from a ship in 6th century BC, the victim of a greedy crew, but his voice was so beautiful, the story goes, that a dolphin saved him by carrying him to shore. Here is his likeness in copper, holding on to the dolphin.
This fountain was planned in 1751, after the Thirty Years’ War, but postponed twice because of lack of funds and installed only in 2002 by local architect Ivan Theimer and
Italian Angela Chiantelli.
Olomouc identifies with Arion.
With the recent installation of this fountain, the city feels that an injustice has been rectified. During the Thirty Years’ War, Olomouc lost its stature as the capital of
Moravia and was later turned into a fortress, a humiliating position for a beautiful city that had one of its priceless fountains demolished and much of its municipal government strictly limited in power. Identifying with Arion, who was able to return to Corinth and have his thieves justly prosecuted, the people of Olomouc love the Arion Fountain. It is beautifully lit at night as the symbol of a city with restored pride -- and entirely restored Upper Square. In addition, all three figures in the fountain -- the obelisk on the turtle’s back, Arion with the dolphin, and two children with Arion’s attributes -- are covered with an intricate relief that the sculptor meant to symbolize Olomouc’s citizenry, known for their musical talent.
Holy Trinity Column
Several stories high, the baroque column is unique and one of the greatest sculptural achievements of Europe. In size and richness of sculptural detail, it has no match, our guide insisted.
It was begun in 1716 by the imperial-privileged architect Vaclav Render (1669-1733), who finished the foundation and first story with chapel before his death. At this point, Ondrej Zahner (1709-1752) created the 21 larger-than-life statues of saints in just 3 years from Mladejovice sandstone. In 1745 to 1752, Zahner completed the crowning sculptural groups of Holy Trinity and Assumption of the Virgin Mary from copper, and they were then gilded by Olomouc goldsmith Jan Simon Forstner (1714-1773). I didn’t study each of the twenty-one saints, but was sure to notice Wenceslas, the patron saint of Czech lands. Visitors can go inside the small chapel.
Olomouc baroque and World Heritage
The Holy Trinity Column was inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in the year 2000. One stated reason for its inclusion is that it represents a regional sculptural style known as Olomouc baroque. Another stated justification is that it displays in a unique material (the local sandstone) and with the "most outstanding expression," the religious faith of central Europe during the baroque period.
Hercules Fountain
In front of City Hall is the symbol of the city’s strength and its protector. Quite ominous in his animal cape and jaws tight with determination, Hercules has an Olomouc eagle in one hand and club in the other. The open-mouthed, large-toothed Hydra is at his feet, but not to fear! His club is poised to destroy it.
Hercules was the second fountain installed in the city (1687) after Neptune (1683, Lower Square), and the second work of Michael Mandik and Wenzel Schuller. The figure once occupied the space now graced by the Holy Trinity Column and was moved to his present position by architect Vaclav Render in preparation for his masterpiece column.
Caesar Fountain
Wenzel Render hired Johann George Schauberger to assist him with the sculptural work on the equestrian Caesar, to whom myth attributes the founding of the city. Around the southeast corner of City Hall and facing Michael’s Hill leading to St. Michael’s Church and another fountained square (Lower Square), Caesar looks determined to scale the hill where the "pagan" Julius Tower once dominated the town. At his feet are four figures: river gods Moravus and Danubius and other land symbols of Moravia and Lower Austria.
The figure of a sitting dog symbolizes Olomouc’s faithfulness to the emperors. You’ll forgive me that I missed Caesar here and caught the figures of the river gods, for their expressions are wonderful.
This fountain was installed in 1725 and completes the four displays on Upper Square.
There are more!
Up the hill await four more: Neptune, Jupiter, Mercury, and Triton, plus the Marian plague column. The fountains of Olomouc are especially interesting because they bring to light a group of architects and artists previously neglected and now in the spotlight. Visitors have ventured into Moravia to see mountains and to enjoy outdoor sports. With restorations of breathtakingly beautiful main squares in historic towns, they now have another reason to go. You can see more of the fountains here.