Within the city walls is much tourist kitsch but the fortress itself is really something. We took the tour, which took us into courtyards, along castle ramparts and within towers. We learned much of the fortress’ history and its elaborate system of defenses, as well as information about its reconstructions (some of which were less authentic than others).
One fortress courtyard has been made into an amphitheater for various musical performances. That day a reggae band was scheduled to play (unfortunately, we had a train to catch). You may also see mock medieval tournaments, complete with horses and knights in shining armor.
We had dinner in a charming outdoor restaurant that seemed to be inside but which was canopied by cleverly-pruned trees. We lingered outside the site of the concert, listening to the warm-up band, along with many young people, families, older people, and family dogs. The castle is lit up at night and has a magical setting.