Edirne Stories and Tips

Kiyiköy: Village on the Black Sea

Beach Shack Photo, Edirne, Turkey

Kiyiköy looks promising on the map. First of all, it is on the Black Sea coast. Secondly, it is a small dot - so it must be a small village - and only 60km west of Istanbul.

When we got to Kiyiköy, the village was even better than it had looked on the map. It is situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Black Sea. Once it was a walled citadel, but these days, only two city gates are left.

Kiyiköy is a small village, and in an hour, we had been everywhere. We stopped to admire the old, half-timbered houses, but many are uninhabited and in serious disrepair. These days the inhabitants live in modern, concrete houses.

Next we went to the West Gate and took the road that led down to Kazandere River. We followed it for some 300m upstream and came to the Monastry of St Nicolas, a church carved into the rock of the hillside dating back to the 3rd century. It has colonnaded aisles, a semicircular apse, and tiered seats, all weather-worn and overgrown with moss. The lower floor was the church, and the monks lived on the upper floor. The church was built by early Christians fleeing from persecution by the Romans. It was built in this place because there is a mineral spring. It is beautiful place and very peaceful and has great views.

The best beaches are west of the village, a 2km stretch, with some beach huts and showers. There are two restaurants that serve fresh fish. But we were here in April, and the beach was deserted.

We found Bar-Café-Marina, a good place to eat. We sat outside on the terrace, and the fishing harbour was down below. I have no address, but Kiyiköy is so small that on your wanderings, you will have passed it several times already.

Kartal Tea Garden, next to the West Gate, is the best place to watch the sun set against a backdrop of beach, fields, and poplars. Late afternoon, hundreds of storks settled down in one of the fields. Kiyiköy is one of their migration stops.

We were here late April, and Kiyiköy was very quiet, with no visitors. This is different from June to September, when many people from Istanbul spend their holidays here. They usually stay for 2 months because Istanbul is too hot and polluted in summer.

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