‘You have come British time.’
We arrived 90 minutes before departure.
’Our boat has technical problem today.’ he continued and gave us a big smile and gestured us to sit down. ‘There is a flight at 12 and a fast boat at 12.30.’
Our cancelled boat was the slow boat, it would have taken four hours to get to Zanzibar. Four hours Tanzanian time. From experience I know that this would mean five hours our time. People in Tanzania are very generous about time, making it longer or shorter, whichever suits best.
We had chosen this slow boat because over the years we have learned that these faster boats usually touch the top of the waves and make everybody seasick.
But this time we had no choice and decided on the fast boat.
’Show us the boat.’ I asked. He duly took us outside and pointed at a catamaran. Later on we boarded a completely different one, and I was not surprised at all.
Our man then invited us to go to ‘the launch’, which appeared to be the lounge, and was a waiting room resembling a beehive: Zanzibarians returning home.
Soon two neat lines were formed, one for women one for men, proceeding alternatively to board the catamaran. Men were scanned by men, women by women. Men carrying headboards, chairs and other interesting merchandise went on board. We followed and were separated from the crowd and directed upstairs, which slowly filled with foreigners who had paid in dollars and other first class passengers.
The ferry terminal is opposite the cathedral. There are two counters: one for dollar payments, foreigners, and one for local currency payments. Bring your passport as you will have to show this when buying your ticket.
When you disembark in Stonetown, don’t follow the crowd. Foreigners have to fill in an immigration form and get their passport stamped. On leaving the ferry bear left and you will find the immigration office. Your Tanzanian visa is also valid for Zanzibar. When formalities are over taxi drivers will offer their services. They will suggest hotels, first the ones where they get a high commission but they don’t push you. If you don’t like the hotel of your first choice or if it is full, they will happily tour the city with you, no extra cost. Some hotels are in back alleys and difficult to find. When negotiating the room price bear in mind that the first night is more expensive as you will also have to pay the taxi driver’s commission.
Price of the ferry from Dar es Salaam to Stonetown, Zanzibar: non-residents $20 inclusive of tax $5 for the slow ferry. The fast catamaran: $30 and $5 tax