MORNING:
Start the day at Piazza Duomo. First admire the Duomo's façade. It is sparkling white, like it has just been cleaned. Look up and take your time to see the many statues and details.
Walk around the cathedral so that you can see it from all sides. It is an impressive building and the third largest cathedral in the world. (Number one is St Peter in Rome, and number two is Seville's cathedral in Spain).
It is now time to cool down, so go inside, and the first thing you will notice is the temperature: nice and cool. The second thing is the 52 pillars, each 3.50m in diameter. They are huge! When you have walked around enough, it is time to climb the steps or take the lift to the roof so that you can see the statues on the roof. There are 2,245 of them, all different, and there are too many to see them all.
When you get down, walk across Piazza Duomo to Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, an elegant shopping arcade finished in 1877. Right in the middle, under the copula, is a mosaic of a bull. Dancing on its masculinity brings luck and fulfils your wishes, but I was told only for men.
It is now time for a refreshment. The best place is Bar Zucca, at the main entrance of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (Piazza Duomo side).
It is still too early for una zucca, an alcoholic drink made from rhubarb, with a slight medicinal taste. But they also serve cappuccino, café latte, and espresso.
The bar was favoured by Guiseppe Verdi, who used to stop here for a drink after concerts at the Scala, which is just around the corner.
When you have finished your coffee and have done enough people-watching, walk to Piazza della Scala to see the famous Theatro alla Scala. You can try to get tickets, as the box office is open from 12 to 6pm.
Visit Museo teatrale alla Scala, where you can see theatre sets and costumes. Next to the Scalla is Via Manzoni; Guiseppe Verdi lived and died at number 29. Legend has it that the street was covered in straw so that he could compose without being interrupted by the noise of horses and carriages.
Walk along via Dante (or take a taxi) to Castello Sforzesco, a perfect place to rest. The castle was built in 15th century and looks like a brick cube. Give the museum a miss (unless you are interested in medieval paintings).
Have a picnic lunch in the park next to the castle or go to one of the restaurants nearby. A three-course menu will set you back 15€ (plus a 1.50€ cover charge and extra for drinks).
AFTERNOON:
It is now time to get away from it all. Take a taxi or the subway. Get off at Garibaldi F.S. (line M2). Cimitero Monumentale is right in front of you.
If you are interested in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, you will certainly like this cemetery. All graves are decorated with sculptures in these styles. A small detail: many graves have framed photos of the deceased.
Cimitero Monumentale is like a museum, even better because it is in the open, very quiet, and peaceful. Don't miss the life-size sculpture of Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper," the leaning Tower of Pisa, and the rock with a plowing farmer. As with all museums and monuments, the cemetery is closed on Mondays.
Time for more mundane matters: shopping. You will find the Italian couturiers in Via della Spiga at 4 Bulgari and 14 Cerruti, and in Via Monte Napoleone, at 5 Gucci, 11 Versace, 14 Vuitton, and 16 Cartier. In Via Sant'Andrea, they are at 9 Armani, 10 Chanel, and 11 Kenzo. If your budget doesn't allow you to shop here, you can go to Corso Buenos Aires, full of affordable shops and outlets.
EVENING:
Take the subway to Porta Genova in the Navigli district. Walk along Via Vigevano to the wharf and explore the clubs, bars, and restaurants. Between one aperitif and another, you serve yourself from the buffets that are provided at the happy hour.
You will have no problem finding a restaurant, as there are plenty. A big bonus of this area is that there are often live concerts in the evening.