You don't HAVE to be a lover to go here (that's Virginia, I believe). But it's a great place for being in love with everything in sight. This is the main jewel of Cabo, a million times more worthwhile than the lunatic sideshow that's grown up around it, and one of the absolute finest swimming holes in the world.
It's also the Last California Beach. As the spine of the Californias drops down into the sea, terminating with typical preposterous poetry in a stone arch with sand-floored cave, it leaves one last gap--Lover's Beach--to bridge the Two Seas. The Pacific side is a towering, pounding surf that you'd be nuts to swim in. I've actually seen people pulled into the water, just like in Bugs cartoons. This is literally and no fooling killer surf. But it looks just glorious slamming the rock spires in front of the SolMar. And you see whales here a lot.
The business end of the beach is on the Mar de Cortez side, gentle clear water perfect for lazy swims or for snorkeling. There are lots of parrot fish, Moorish Idols, wrasses, and other cool tropical fish around the offshore rocks. You can swim out to the arch if you're up for it, or back towards town to the white rock--a open air aquarium.
Or just laze in the soft white sand, staring up at the rock walls that protect this unique beach. They've been sandblasted for centuries to produce a tissue-like effect that could have been done by Dali or Max Ernst on a mushroom high.
Most people arrive by water taxi from Medano beach or the dock in front of Plaza Las Glorias, but you can also rent a canoe at the Hacienda beach and paddle over. Or walk through the SolMar bar, hike south on the beach until you hit rocks and follow the trail over them--at high tide this can require some timing and dashes to keep from getting soaked (and/or carried out to sea) but the climb itself over the sand-smoothed rocks is fun.
Forget Squid Roe and the Gagging Marlin and the topless joints--this place is the heart and soul of Cabo and the more time you spend here the better person you will be. Same goes for any lovers you bring along.