"It’s called the grandest TRAVERSE in the Alps," our fearless leader Graham deadpanned. I hesitated. I could tell that what he meant was, "It’s called the grandest TRAVERSE in the Alps, you idiot!"
Ah yes, in fact, the fabled Haute Route across the Alps from Chamonix to Zermatt is indeed a traverse, which did not bode well for a rookie split-snowboarder like myself. However, I was resolved not to allow my equipment disadvantages relative to my skier friends hold me back. I took Graham’s lighthearted warning (not without a hint of seriousness) with a shrug and a hopeful glance at Lisa, our other guide (and Aussie ski team veteran), hoping that she would dismiss my apprehension. No such luck.
Fortunately, I found that, besides one killer (and I do mean killer) day, which involved a long arduous traverse around Lake Dix, the hours spent climbing far outnumbered the hours spent traversing. And let me tell you, climbing on the fat skis, which my board converted into, was infinitely preferable to endless mental debate about whether to ski without good edges, board and pole, hike, or more often, waddle. Oh, and how could I forget? There were some epic descents thrown in there as well. In fact, memories of these descents remain, completely out of proportion to their relative time weighting in the scheme of things. Picture-perfect powder shots, crevasse-ridden glaciers, and picturesque alpine valleys, mostly on moderate terrain, made all of us feel like stars in the latest Warren Miller ski porn flick. Thus, the Haute Route, while a mountain adventure par excellence, is best suited for people who just love to ski (or ride), pure and simple.
The Haute Route (high route) was first completed before the turn of the century by some adventurous Swiss alpinists, and it soon became known as a trip of the grandest proportions: the highest mountains, the most beautiful valleys, and the best ski descents. These days it can be done either in the spring on skis (or a split snowboard) or in the summer in hiking boots, along with crampons and an ice axe. In modern times, the difficulty of the trip has been considerably lessened by the presence of mountain huts along the route, complete with caretakers, hot (and often delicious) food, and of course (it is Europe, after all), wine. There’s just something grand about working your ass off everyday in the company of your pals and amidst spectacular peaks and glaciers, only to arrive at a warm (albeit often stinky) mountain refuge and gorge yourself on rosti (fried potatoes, eggs, ham, and cheese) while passing around the house merlot.
The days ranged from 4 to10 hours, depending on the weather, conditions, distances between the huts, and of course, elevation gain and loss. However, the one constant was the incredible beauty around us, so much grander in scale than the American West in terms of sheer steepness and vertical rise. Since all of us were relatively fit (an important consideration for this trip, especially if you are considering being a "snow surfer,"as the French call snowboarders), the main challenge was negotiating the terrain in a safe manner. In this respect, the expertise of our guides proved essential, as Graham and Lisa put their mountaineering experience to good use when we encountered difficulties in route-finding or found ourselves in avalanche terrain. The Haute Route (both the cassic route and its variations) can be done independently, but only if the group or individual is intimately familiar with the route and terrain from prior experience.
As often happens in the mountains, fast friends were made and familiarity (and close sleeping quarters) bred solidarity (along with a little dose of contempt). Our group of eight bandied about the huts like we owned the joints, being alternatively raucous and contemplative (read: involved in a competitive game of euchre) as it suited us. During the days we pushed each other when we needed to be pushed via a combination of enthusiasm and peer pressure, and during the evenings we shared good-natured laughs at each other’s expense. The trip brought out the best in us.
Additional Notes:
Our group employed the excellent services of guides Graham and Lisa through Chamonix Experience (www.chamex.com), part of the family of companies owned by mountaineering legend and Himalayan climber-businessman Russell Brice. Their organizational capabilities made the trip infinitely easier and more enjoyable than it might otherwise have been (for example, changing hut reservations while we were waiting out a whiteout) or arranging transportation from Zermatt to Chamonix. We're planning to return next year to do the Italian Haute Route!