Outside of Aoufuss, the date capital of Morocco, our guide Salah, speaking Berber gets us free dates. (The eating kind.) One old Berber said he had none with him, but we were welcome to go to his house and help ourselves. We didn't. This valley is the most spectacular oasis I've seen. Two old Berber men, dressed in white, sitting in a cave. Taxis constantly travel up and down the desert highways. Arabs or Berbers sit by the road waiting for them. The taxis, mostly Mercedes, carry as many as eight or nine people at a time. Morocco seems to be populated by children. They're everywhere. In fact, someone told us that in the countryside, a couple has an average of nine children. In the cities, it drops to four. Speaking of four, Moroccan law allows every man to have four wives as long as he can treat them equally -- financially as well as sexually.