Surat Thani

Almost 700 kilometers south of Bangkok, Surat Thani is the largest province in southern Thailand. Moreover, it is the most important one for the travelers attempting to reach the Gulf of Thailand islands. Under such circumstances, most travelers would be relieved to find the city name means "City of the Good People."

"Thani" is one of the words meaning "city" in Thai; Ubon Ratchathani and Udon Thani are other cities containing this word in their name. Next to downtown Surat – as Surat Thani is commonly shortened – is the river Tapi. In India there is also a city called Surat located next to a river called Tapti. The coincidence is probably not casual; many Thai names originated in the Sanskrit written mythology.

City Pillar Shrine

Thai cities always include a pillar - a symbolic representation of a linga - which is considered to host the city’s guardian spirit or deity. As such, these places are located in the vicinity of – or within - larger temples and are an official center of worship for the city’s welfare, though usually they are the preferred temples for fertility rites as well.

In Surat, this shrine was built in Srivijaya style and has become a unique landmark of the city. In size and shape, it resembles a Thai cheddi, with the difference that it has four stylized entries at the ground level and is roughly square instead of round due to geometrical restrictions imposed by the doors. The complex arches atop the doors feature smaller replicas of themselves on the structure second level. The structure pointed end symbolizes the Buddhist aspiration to achieve Nirvana. The whole structure is shiny white.

Other Temples

It is worth mentioning that the Province of Surat Thani is home to one of the 23 first class temples in Thailand (above them is only one of special class - Wat Phra Kaew within Bangkok’s Grand Palace). Unluckily, Wat Phra Borommathat is 54 kilometers north of downtown, in Chaiya. Visiting it demands a special trip to that area.

Cathedral

Taking into account that southern Thailand is home to less than 7000 Christians, it is surprising to find a full Roman Catholic diocese here, namely the St. Raphael Cathedral. Located in the northern side of the town, this cathedral occupies a rather small – but charming – church. Strangely enough, a golden Christ statue is framed there within a Greek doorframe. He welcomes the visitors with hands extended upwards.

Night Market

For me, visiting the night market is an essential – and delightful – part of any visit to a city in Thailand.

Usually chaotic, a night market border is difficult to define. Being placed partly on ambulant stalls, it has an intrinsically unsteady nature that demands from the traveler to actively look around. As such it is a wonderful experience; it allows sightseeing, meeting denizens and tasting local food, all at the same time.

In Surat Thani, a good section of it is near Wat Sai, a temple just north of the Koh Lamphu Island, though its formal center is Talat Sanjoa, about a block north of Wat Sai along the town’s main road. As often happens nowadays, next to it are Western shops. Here are the Sahathai Department Store, a Pizza Company outlet, a Swensen’s branch, and a supermarket among others. Needless to say, clothes and souvenirs are also for sale on the street.

Typical dishes – to be found elsewhere in Thailand - are available at the market. Pad Thai, curries, roti, fruit shakes and others are all here, but they are elsewhere as well. What’s special here?

As most of the Thai south, Surat specializes in sea food which arrives fresh from the near gulf every day. Thus, it is highly recommended to look for products containing fish, oysters, prawns and similar delicacies. One of them is distinctive of the area: Kanomjean is prepared by combining green curry with rice noodles and some meat. Chicken, beef and pork are available, but the seafood is the recommended option, prawns and oysters are remarkable here for their quality and size.

Even more distinctive are the salted duck eggs which have a reddish yolk due to the duck’s special seafood diet. However, Surat is known all over Thailand for its coconuts and rambutan. This last name means "hairy" in Malay and is known as ngaw in Thai; it is worth mentioning – without giving the full details – that this word is used as a derogatory term to certain minority living in the area. Thus, when using the term, make clear you are referring to the fruit (i.e. use it exclusively at a stall selling the fruit while pointing at the fruits).

Other options for dinner are on the River Tapi Promenade or on one of the restaurants placed on boats. A good idea is to combine such a dinner and visit to the night market with an earlier walk to Koh Lamphu. This island is a bit south of the market and is connected to the mainland with a bridge; its park is ideal for picnics.

Timing the Visit

As in most of Thailand, boat races can be enjoyed during Ok Phansa (the end of the annual 3-month Buddhist Rains Retreat), usually celebrated between mid-October to mid-November. Named Chak Phra Festival, this is the biggest of its class in southern Thailand.

Following it is Loy Krathong, during the full moon of the 12th Thai month (usually mid-November). This event is especially beautiful though to the candles released on the river atop floral ornaments.

The Thai New Year (Songkran) is celebrated in April or May, mainly by wetting people walking down the street with water.

A festival specific of the area is the Boon Sad Dean Sib Festival – in August - when denizens honor their ancestors in the temples and prepare special dishes for the event.

Souvenirs

Probably the best souvenir to take away from Surat is silk. It is light; it doesn’t cause troubles at the customs and makes a wonderful gift. Produced by hand at a nearby village, the local product is known as "Phumriang" and displays tasteful patterns embossed in it with shuttle looms.

From journal Haunting Hues