Parks in Bangkok

Speaking of a walk in nature in one of the world’s biggest metropolises sounds strange. However, below the Skytrain and above the metro, Bangkok offers a surprising variety of green spots.

The best before this tour, is having an invigorating coffee at Thanon Silom. The avenue can be reached with the Skytrain Sala Daeng Station or the metro.

Near the station is a branch of Delifrance. They serve an excellent coffee, but there is a more important aspect to such a visit. They are one of the few shops in Bangkok specializing in bread and offer awesome sandwiches on a wide variety of fresh breads. After living for a while in a rice-oriented culture, such a place grows to be of importance and successfully provides the illusion of returning home, at least for a short hour.

Lumphini

Afterward, head northwards until the street ends at the corner of Suan Lumphini, the biggest park in metropolitan Bangkok. Lumphini is the local spelling of Lumbini, Buddha’s birthplace in Nepal.

King Rama VI - King Mankhutklao - created the park in the 1920s; his statue is on the southwestern entrance to the park. Back then, the park was on the city outskirts, while now it is at its very center, connecting the main commercial and shopping quarters.

The lush and green garden hosts two lakes and two ponds; while walking among them, pleasant surprises await the visitor. The Thai Lanna Pavilion is better than any similar structure in Chiang Mai, the capital of the old Lanna Kingdom, which was one of the predecessors to the modern Thai Kingdom. Almost on the opposite side of the park are a Chinese Pavilion and a beautiful Chinese Clock Tower, which honor another important segment of the Thai society. Near the park is the Lumphini Boxing Stadium, the main Muay Thai (Thai kickboxing) arena in town.

The Bird Watching Course allows enjoying the over thirty species of birds that inhabit the park. Pedalboats and rowboats are available for rental; thirty minutes cost thirty baht (roughly one dollar). The Smiling Sun Ground is an area designed for the disabled, with no stairs, a special playground, parking lots and other special facilities.

Dharma in the Park is the name of a Buddhist sermon given on the last Sunday of every month between 7 AM and 9 AM. Music in the Park is the name given to various Thai and Western musical performances in the Palm Garden between February and April, on Sundays between 4:30 PM and 8 PM.

Central World Plaza

After enjoying the park, walk northwards along Thanon Ratchadamri along the Royal Bangkok Sports Club until the intersection with Thanon Ploen Chit. The junction is cannot be missed since it features the eastern meeting point between the two Skytrain lines.

In front of the Central World shopping mall is a plaza running all along it. It is difficult to define it as a park or a garden, since it is completely covered up and does not feature even one spot of green; yet, two temples occupy one of its corners. One of them features a large pond of water, adding a touch of nature to one of the most developed areas in the city. The rest of the plaza hosts changing displays.

The Ganesh and Trimurati Shrines are located in the northern corner of the plaza. The one, solid and low, is the Ganesh Shrine; it is dedicated to the Hindu Elephant God, which is considered here as a benefactor. An elephant was featured in the old Siamese flag and up to date elephants enjoy a special place in the Thai culture. In the shrine, a huge Ganesh sits below a dome and is surrounded by many small elephant statues put there by worshippers. Flower garlands, bananas and fresh stalks of sugarcane are given to it as offerings.

Near it is the larger, whiter and taller Trimurati Shrine, amidst a shallow, black pool. Its calm waters add a bit of serenity to this hectic part of Bangkok. The shrine consists of three pillars representing the Hindu gods Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The offerings here include red flowers, candles and incense. The fact that most of the worshipers are Theravada Buddhists is another peculiarity of the Thai society.

Benchasiri

After that return to Ploen Chit and take the Skytrain to Phrom Pong Station. Even from the side facing Sukhumvit Road, Benchasiri Park looks attractive on the verge of irresistible. When approaching it, a sudden void, the open space between the high buildings, provides an exciting prelude. Following the void in the altitudes is the appearance of greenery. Once inside the landscape changes, as if by work of hidden stage workers, and a green screen falls upon the city; the visitor is immersed in a different world of blue waters and greenery.

The construction of the Benchasiri Park was decided in 1989, the construction began in 1990 and it was inaugurated on 12 August 1992 as a tribute to H.M. the Queen on her 5th Cycle Birthday.

Despite its relatively small size, the park packs in many attractions, while keeping a serene and peaceful ambience. A big pond at its center and the tree’s shade create an attractive contrast with the surrounding skyscrapers.

An impressive three meters tall, golden sculpture of H.M. the Queen in a standing posture in what looks like a commemoration coin welcomes the visitors to the park. Near it are two Thai styled pavilions exhibiting H.M. the Queen's activities.

Separating the sculpture from the street is the musical fountain. The fountain is part of the sculpture called "Hansa" (ecstasy) by Mesium Yipinsoy. Shows in which the water dances at the rhythm of the music are held three times daily, between 6 and 7 AM, 12 to 1 PM and 6 to 8 PM. Beyond the fountain musical show, special performances can be enjoyed in the weekend’s evenings. They include Thai and Western groups.

The park was designed as Bangkok’s Park of Sculptures, and includes eighteen pieces by well known artists. Those include "Cheevit lae Sattha" (Life and Faith), "Roi Sattha" (A Trace of Faith), "Kird" (Birth), "Wan Dek" (Children Day), "Rammana" (a one-ended drum with a short cylinder), "Dek" (Child), "Toeb To" (Growth), "Ngok Ngarm" (flourish), "Puen Pipop lae Jakkawan" (Earth and the Universe), "Wua" (Cow), "Sanyalak Haeng Seriphab" (Freedom), "Sanyalak Haeng Cheevit" (Life), "Manus" (Human), and "Leela Haeng Samphantaphab" (Relative Movement). This adds an interesting cultural level which is almost inexistent in other local parks.

Despite most of the park being greenery (70%) or water (20%), some space was kept for sports; paved areas for the following games exist: Taek Raw, Volleyball, Basketball, Roller-Skating and also a Health Plaza with various fitness stations. A children playground and a swimming pool complete the list of sport facilities.

In addition to a recreational place, the park is a venue for Buddhist activities. Every second Sunday of each month between 6:30 AM and 8:30 AM a Buddhist sermon – called "Dharma in the Park" – can be listened to in Thai.

OK, I did that and it is still before sunset

Some of the best parks in Bangkok are located in other areas. One which is worth of a special visit – though it can be combined with a visit to the Grand Palace, is the Santi Chai Prakan Park and Phra Sumen Fort, see the relevant entry for details how to reach it. This is one of the most distinctively Thai sights in Bangkok. Seldom do such couples – park and fort - exist within a city and it is even rarer when they are easily accessible. Parts of the old city wall, a Thai Pavilion and an attractive bridge over the Chao Phraya River complete the scene.


From journal Rambling Krung Thep