Mercado Central

Local markets are always a good place to meet the local culture and people. While traveling, they provide a fascinating opportunity to examine differences among cities. For example, moving south through the Andean Plateau from La Paz down to Oruro, Sucre and Potosi would result in finding substantially smaller breads in the markets. Anyone there - even those few without a PhD from the London School of Economics - would explain the nosy visitor that this is a result of moving into poorer areas of Bolivia.

Sucre�s Central Market

However, there are other reasons for visiting markets. In such a busy country capital as Sucre is, people don't really get up before 9 AM and coffee shops do not open before 10 AM. Thus, the Central Market is a handy place for a breakfast before a busy day visiting the city attractions. To make things friendlier, the market is centrally located next to the San Francisco Basilica and thus the breakfast can be combined with a visit to that magnificent church. Actually, in the sixteenth century, the actual market area was part of the basilica. The town's central plaza and the cathedral (all of them reviewed in this journal) are also nearby.

As usual, the market occupies a low structure which allows in the sunlight; no electric lights are used within. It is divided into zones, with all the stalls selling similar items concentrated in one area. The dining area features stalls selling breakfasts and hot drinks and others selling set meals. The first are active early in the morning (opening roughly after 7 AM) while the last open toward noon. Household goods and raw foods stalls complete the picture.

On Bread and Breakfast

Bolivian markets can pose a serious threat to health, but along time I have found that the basic breakfast offered in them - bread, cheese and coffee - is constantly reliable and safe.

In Sucre, the bread takes the shape of tiny buns. The round ones are called "sarnas" and usually (in the rest of the country) have a bit of cheese incrusted on their top; however, in Sucre the last is very symbolic, more an atavism than anything else.

The set breakfast costs roughly the equivalent of a quarter dollar and includes two buns, a triangular small piece of cheese and a sweet coffee. The only cheese available in the Bolivian markets is white, solid, and extra-salty, fact that may balance off the coffee over-sweetness if consumed together.

The coffee is what the denizens call "destilado." It is prepared out of a concentrate diluted with water or milk to fill up a cup; unless warned in advance, the shopkeeper would automatically add at least two big, overloaded spoons of sugar to it; a children's (and dentists) heaven.

Another option for breakfast is to have a healthy fruit juice. Sitting on the broken hills between the Andean Plateau and the Amazonian Basin, Sucre has access to a wide variety of fruits. Papayas, a tiny variety of peaches, apples and pomegranates are obvious, but more exotic options do exist. Chirimoya (custard apple), tumbo (a fruit resembling a huge date but with a green skin and orange interior), pakai (a long green fruit filled up with sweet, fibrous, white units and large stones), tuna (a cactus fruit appearing in green, yellow or red) and maracuya (passion fruit) are interesting options for an unusual meal. This option is more expensive than the bread-amd-cheese breakfast and costs the equivalent of a half American dollar. Mixing fruits in one shake is not customary, but it can be requested.

They shakes are prepared with water or milk; after finishing the glass do not rush out of the stall; put the glass in a visible spot and try attracting the vendor�s attention. Serving a �yapa� (�addition� in Aymara) is custom in Bolivian markets. After spotting the empty glass, the vendor would approach it and refill it with whatever amount of juice (usually between a quarter and a half glass) was left in the blender.

From journal Sucre: Dream Capital