Nürnberg

Nürnberg is an easy city to navigate and public transportation is unnecessary to see the sights of the Old City. The Medieval cemetery, Johannisfriedhof, is just an easy walk to the West of the Old City. The Nürnberg Zoo is an easy 4 km ride East of the Old City. The Dokumentationszentrum (Documentation Center) is an easy bus or tram journey.

Nürnberg's Altstadt (old city) is wonderful. It has a marvelous pedestrian zone, excellent shopping streets, historical sites, and extraordinary period buildings. Excellent restaurants and gasthauses await the visitor and for a bit of rest and relaxation, "Kaffee und Kuchen" and the gemütlich dining rooms in which they are served are plentiful and welcoming. Inside or outside, visitors can partake of the world's best bratwurst (personal opinion), sumptuous cakes and pastries, and great beer and wine. All of this awaits the visitor within easy walking distance of the hauptbahnhof (main train station).

To the Old City - First stop, Handwerkerhof

After arriving in Nürnberg, exit the Hauptbahnhof through the lower level tunnel which goes under Bahnhofstrasse and leads to the U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms. Following the signs to the Altstadt, exit the tunnel ramp into the Old City. The Frauentor (Queen's Gate) is on the left and on the right is a Tourist Information shop. Follow the signs to the Handwerkerhof (Craftsman's Alley) on the left. Spend a few minutes just walking through this very lovely and well laid-out section of artisans and craftsmen. You will also find a Weinstubbe, and a Bratwurst restaurant, both of which rival any of the other local eating establishments. You will not be able to miss the aromas. When you exit the Handwerkerhof, continue into the pedestrian zone on Königstrasse.

The Pedestrian Zone to Lorenzkirche

As you leave Handwerkerhof and walk Northwest toward Lorenzkirche on Königstrasse, the streets off to your left are the main shopping streets of Nürnberg which we will visit toward the end of the tour. For the sake of information, the streets all meet each other at the Weisserturm (White Tower) so you will be able to navigate the area easily. It is worthwhile to visit the Weisserturm for the sculpture called Marriage Merry-Go-Round. It was sculpted in 1984 and portrays the stages of marriage as written in a poem by Hans Sachs. It describes romantic relationships beginning with love and lust, to the final stages when the couple are trying to kill each other (somewhat exaggerated). Return to Koenigstrasse which will take you all the way to the Hauptmarkt (main marketplace or square).

Following Königstrasse down the hill, you will come to a bridge named Museumbrücke. On the left you will see the Fleischbrücke, a 1498 copy of the Rialto bridge in Venice. On the right is the famous Heilig-Geist-Spital (Holy Ghost Hospital). The lower floor of the unique building is perhaps Nürnberg's most famous restaurant known by the same name. Originally, the Heilig-Geist-Spital was a hospital for the poor. Today the upper floors are apartments for senior citizens and if you turn right at the corner and walk down the street, the first entrance is to the senior residence. Then comes the restaurant. I don't know about the food in the senior home, but the restaurant is excellent and not overly expensive. It also has a huge wine list and very knowledgeable wine stewards. The view from the bridge is one of the three or four most well-known scenes of Nürnberg, and Germany, either day or night. Spend a couple of minutes on the bridge and continue to the Hauptmarkt.

The Hauptmarkt, Die Frauenkirche, and Der Schöner Brunnen

There are three major sights and a Tourist Information shop in the square. The sights are Der Hauptmarkt (Main Market), Die Frauenkirche (the Church of Our Lady), and Der Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain).

The Hauptmarkt was at one time the Jewish quarter. They were removed (not humanely), and the area became the center of life in the city. The Gothic Frauenkirche is from the 14th century. The carillon is activated each day at noon. The inside of this Catholic church is worthwhile exploring when you are "wandering."

Turn left at the end of the square. Note the "Tourist Information" shop in the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall) on the right. Continuing past the New City Hall and at the far end of the square on the left is the Schöner Brunnen. This replica sandstone statue (with original pieces in the Deutsches Museum) is approximately 60 feet high. The ironwork has two rings to turn.

To the Castle, Tiergärtener Platz, and the Albrecht Dürer House

Turn right at the corner onto Burgstrasse (Castle Street). On the right is a welcome sign "WC" which means "Public Restroom." (It is not free, and there is an attendant who will make change.) Now, begin the uphill walk to the castle. On the left is one of the most famous Nürnberg Bratwurst restaurants Bratwursthäusle (excellent) and just further up the hill is the back of the oldest church in the city, Sebalduskirche (St. Sebaldus Church). On the right is the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall), and ahead on the left is the Stadtmuseum Fembohaus (Fembohaus Municipal Museum) which is a museum of Nürnberg history and worth a later visit.

Continue on Burgstr. to the base of the castle (definite later visit). Turn left on am Ölberg to Tiergärtnertor Platz. This delightful square has a tunnel which leads through to the outside of the wall and there is also an entrance to the sentry walk along the top of the wall (well worth taking a stroll on the sentry walk). On the corner is the Albrecht-Dürer-Haus Albrecht Dürer House. Dürer, the city's most famous artist, was a early 14th century painter and engraver who lived and worked in this house. It is the only 14th century Gothic house in the city having been spared from the WWII bombings and destruction. (There is also a public WC in this area.) Numerous excellent gasthauses are in the area.

To One of the Prettiest Sights in Europe

Turn left and left again to Bergstrasse and follow the street to Sebalduskirche (St. Sebaldus Church), the oldest church in the city, begun in in the 13th century. It was mostly destroyed in the January 1945 bombings and has been painstakingly rebuilt. As is true with Lorenzkirche, this church was a Roman Catholic cathedral until the Reformation. While Munich remained mostly Roman Catholic, Nürnberg embraced Martin Luther and his teachings and became a Protestant city. This is a "must see" church. Today's population is about 50/50 with many people not religious.

This is a little tricky. Turn right onto Füllstr., then left onto Karlstrasse, right on Irrerstrasse, and diagonally left on Weissgerbergasse. This historical street is one of the loveliest and quaint streets in the city with multi-colored and half-timbered buildings on both sides that begs visitors to "Wander Here." Take Weissgerbergasse until it ends at Maxplatz. Turn left and walk to Maxbrücke (Max Bridge), turn right and cross the bridge. On the left is another of the most famous buildings, the Weinstadl (Wine Storage House), Wasserturm (Water Tower), and Henkersteg (Hangman's Walk). This is another of the most popular pictures of Europe.

Finally, Some Shopping

Now, turn left and follow the pathway that leads along the Pegnitz River. Note the entrance to the Henkersteg for a return visit. Turn right onto Obere-Wörthstrasse and follow it to Kaiserstrasse and stay left which will lead back to Königstr. where you will turn right. Continue up the hill to Karolinestrasse and turn right. This will put you onto the more exclusive shopping street. Follow Karolinestr. to Färberstrasse and turn left. Walk one short block to Brunnengasse and turn left again. This street another of the "shopping" streets. Continue back to Konigstr., turn right and right again onto Breite Gassse which is the last of the main "shopping streets."

Getting to the End

Continue on Breite Gasse to the end at the Weisserturm and the Ehekarussell Brunnen or "Marriage Merry-Go-Round which was described earlier." Leaving the sculpture, head back toward Königstr. on Dr. Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse until reaching the intersection of Jacobstrasse and Strasse der Menschenrechte (Way of Human Rights), a very sobering walk with 29 white pillars and one oak tree. The pillars and the tree bear the 30 articles of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. Continuing down the street toward the wall, you will come to the Germanishes Nationalmuseum. This museum is also a "do not miss" location. This museum traces German history from before pre-historic time to the early 20th century.

Backtracking to Kornmarket Strasse, turn right and follow until you return to Königstrassr where you turn right to return to the Hauptbahnhof or left to return to the Old City.

This walking tour will take about one hour if you walk continuously. It will take an afternoon of wandering. If you want to stop and look at everything and do some shopping, it will take two very full days.

From journal Wanderings