Vientiane in Laos must be Asia’s most laid back capital city with a main street almost complete devoid of the sounds of car horns and there does not seem to be the usual hurry to get somewhere. Dinner time seems to be the same unhurried affair and a stroll along the banks of the Mekong River just before sunset will find dozens of food and drinks stalls setting up ready for the evening. Favourite dishes appear to be every part of the chicken including the feet and gizzards, plenty of different fish, prawns and squid as well as the ever popular sour pork sausages.
There are many similarities between Lao food and that of neighbouring Thailand. In fact, as you sit in your rickety plastic chair, sipping your Beerlao, watching the sun set over the Mekong and waiting for your dinner or pre-prandial snack, the opposite bank of the river is Thailand. The influence of all things Thai is evident and since the largely-unheard-of border war in 87/88, relationships are very close. Very often prices will be quoted in Thai baht, U.S. dollars and then Lao kip in that order.
Lao food is also full of the same flavours of fresh herbs such as basil, mint and coriander, rhizomes such as ginger and galangal and added to this mix, the distinctive tang of lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves and lime juice. Not to forget the chillies or the taste of fish sauce, tamarind and coconut. The most common mode of cooking is grilling.
On my first night in Vientiane, the late arrival of my ‘plane meant that I was forced to rely on the room service menu at my hotel. Since I couldn’t understand what half of it was, I asked them to send me up something traditionally Lao. I got a dubious-looking pizza. About then the band downstairs swung straight into "Knock Three Times" with a Lao singer putting a new slant on the tune. The bass levels made the windows rattle and a sonic boom seemed to travel up through the floor once every couple of seconds. There was a wedding celebration on in the front garden and when I peered over the balcony insult was added to injury. They were enjoying a lavish banquet with dozens of different dishes laid out on the buffet. Sleep was impossible and although I didn’t want to put a damper on their party I did ring reception to find out how long it would last. I didn’t need to – a sudden downpour sent the band and all the guests scurrying for cover. I considered a foray down to the sodden buffet - the pizza had been consigned to the trash – but discretion scored a rare victory.
In the morning I enquired at the front desk to see if there was another wedding planned for that evening and when they replied in the affirmative I checked out and moved to a hotel around the corner.
In the evening I decided to have a snack at the riverside and watch the sun set before going to a restaurant for dinner. I walked up and down past the charcoal barbecues trying to see what most took my fancy. I decided a few prawns would not kill my appetite for later. Ten large prawns and two dipping sauces arrived. By then the sun was playing on the river in crimson hues and I told myself no restaurant could offer these views and the prawns had been cooked to perfection so I opted for the squid in garlic and ginger as well as one of those interesting looking sausages and I thought maybe I should try a couple of those fish brochettes. And another Beerlao to replace the fluids lost in the humidity. All of it absolutely superb with marinades and dipping sauces adding to the freshly grilled flavours. The sausages were packed with coarsely ground pork flavoured with herbs and a something which added a tartness to the flavour, probably tamarind and lemon grass.
A French couple next to me sounded like that scene from ‘When Harry Met Sally’ they were enjoying their food that much.
I got a shock when the bill arrived. Three bottles of beer and my ‘snack’ came to $4.
The next night I decided I would show much greater strength of character and restrict myself to a snack only. There was a Lao duck dish which I very much wanted to try and the right restaurant had been recommended.
After three small river lobsters (langoustines) and another sausage and some grilled chicken and that wonderful view I decided there was definitely no room for any duck dishes. I went to the same stall and the same French couple were at the adjacent table.
We watched the fishermen out on the river and agreed that this was the best place to eat in Vientiane.