On the east side of Puerto Vallarta’s Romantic Zone, in an area with relatively few tourists, is a church with a tall bell tower. Across the street is a restaurant aptly named La Hacienda. Large shuttered windows, wrought iron, white stucco walls and a red tile roof remind you you’re in Mexico. A huge vine with flaming orange flowers cascades from above, welcoming you through the doors. Inside, a cool breeze blows past. Brick floors, wood beamed ceilings and inviting patios make La Hacienda an hacienda.
Years ago we would come here for dinner when we were craving something fancy, something Mexican, and then we would cross to the church, not to pray, but to eat churros. It was a ritual. La Hacienda quit serving dinner and our ritual ended. We had never thought about having breakfast here until recently when my car wouldn’t start. We were a block away and hungry.
We were greeted by a smiling waiter with a formal manor. He asked if we had a seating preference, we said shade. He led us to a nicely set table under a beautiful tree. We were next to a tiny little play area. We saw no children, not a problem. We should have known better. The server then gave us menus, pointed out the specialties, took our drink orders and left. The service had been great up until then. The rest of the morning we had to flag down waiters when we needed something, although I have to say, they were always very friendly.
Besides having the usual egg dishes, fruit plates, chilaquiles and hotcakes, La Hacienda also offers some traditional Mexican foods not usually found in restaurants, and an interesting assortment of crepes. The prices are reasonable with most things costing between forty and seventy pesos.
As we were waiting for our waiter to return and take our order the place started to fill up. Some people were tourists, national and foreign, in very casual clothing, but most people seemed to be locals, dressed very nicely (as nicely as hot sticky weather permits) and meeting for business or family celebrations.
We finally caught the waiter’s attention. Shortly after ordering we were served. The food was nicely presented. I had the Puntas de Filete Don Miguel. It was big chunks of beef tip cooked with onion, tomato, mushrooms and cilantro then served between corn tortillas with refried beans to one side. The beef was tender and juicy. The combination of flavors was perfect and the beans were great. Sails had the Molletes a la Mexicana – a bolillo (Mexican roll) split in half then covered with refried beans and cheese. They were served with freshly made salsa Mexicana. Sails said they were great. He wouldn’t share. Linda had an order of bacon. They served it criss crossed with a parsley garnish. Bacon is not a pretty food and we really appreciated them trying.
With the family celebrations came children and the children naturally gravitated toward the playground. By the time we finished eating the place was swarming with little ones. We knew how long finding a waiter and getting the bill would take. We paid at the front desk and left.
We have come back a couple of times in the last month. We have decided how attentive the service is depends on how visible the customer is. If you are in a hurry make sure to be seated in plain view, not in a quaint nook. The food has been great every time. I recommend the Aztec crepes, the tamale mold au gratin or try a couple of pellizcadas – they’re just little guys, good as an appetizer or side dish.
Sails said, "Hey, it looks like an hacienda, I like it. Friendly but not terribly attentive staff. Great breakfast. It would have been nicer with out all the ankle biters running around. Whose bright idea was it to sit next to the playground?"
sample menuVitality Juice............42 pesos/US$4.00
apple, carrot, orange, parsley and celery
Eggs Motuleños............59 pesos/US$5.60
fried eggs on a tortilla, covered in a red salsa,
sprinkled with ham, cheese and peas
Vallarta Omelet............67 pesos/US$6.40
smoked marlin and Gouda
Pellizcadas au Gratin............20 pesos each/US$1.90
crusted cornmeal rounds topped with pork rinds
Crepes Azteca............65 pesos/US$6.20
filled with chicken, poblano peppers and corn,
covered with cilantro sauce and grated cheese
French Toast............55 pesos/US$5.25
served with fruit or bacon
La Hacienda is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8:00 am until 2:00 pm. Credit cards are not accepted.
Directions - La Hacienda is on Lazaro Cardenas between Insurgentes and Aguacate, right across the street from the church. From the northeast corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head east on Lazaro Cardenas four blocks. The restaurant is on the right.
From journal More Fine Romantic Dining