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    Osaka - Part 2

    Osaka Castle CityMore Photos
    Our destination is the massive Osaka Castle. The city reached its primary importance in the late 16th century when the feudal lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi made Osaka the capital. An immense administrative and commercial center developed at that time around Osaka Castle. After Toyotomi’s death, the capital of the country was moved from Osaka to a tiny fishing village named Ebo which became modern day Tokyo.

    Osaka Castle is one of Japan's most famous castles, and played a major role in the unification of Japan during the sixteenth century . It is situated on a plot of land roughly one kilometer square. It is built on two raised platforms of landfill supported by sheer walls of cut rock, each overlooking a moat. The central castle building is five stories on the outside and eight stories on the inside, and built atop a tall stone foundation to protect its occupants from sword-bearing attackers.

    The castle is open to the public and is a popular spot during festival seasons, and especially during the blooming of the cherry blossoms, when the sprawling castle grounds are covered with food vendors and taiko drummers. The large indoor arena Osaka-jo Hall is also located within the grounds of the castle.

    Our helpful guide gave a quick history of the Castle, dismissing questions about local earthquakes with a non-committal answer and shrug. There was a destructive earthquake in living memory, but modern Japan is concerned with progress and the future, and disasters must be dealt with as and when they occur.

    The Castle originated at the very end of the fifteenth century as a religious institution erected by monks, and has been fought over and burnt and rebuilt regularly since that time. This monastery evolved into an Imperial Castle and was last re-built in 1931.

    Surrounded by a moat and impressive outer wall, the Castle, a classical pagoda structure, is set in tranquil and attractive parkland with various shrines and structures dotted about. An old but uninteresting military building, used as Allied Headquarters after World War II, was until very recently an important museum. It is apparently not of great interest in the present day.

    The approach to the Castle building itself passes through fabulous antique wooden fortified gates, and the stone fortifications consist of enormous flagstone walls, some of which are constructed with slabs weighing one hundred tons or more. Inside the compound, the original antique well structure demonstrates how residents obtained water under siege. Although the pagoda looks authentic enough, the interior is decidedly modern with elevators and information stands.${QuickSuggestions} Go straight to the top and enjoy panoramic views all across the city. If you are a baseball fan, you will be pleased to see the first pitch thrown out in the Osaka Dome. Descend the stairs, and floor by floor you will learn about the history of the castle from pictures, tableaux and information areas, some with moving colored displays. Architect’s plans for the reconstruction of the pagoda are interesting, but it is not immediately apparent which of the numerous reconstructions these relate to. As interesting as the history of the castle, are the visiting multitudes of young Japanese folk dressed in “punk” attire, whose rebellious streak does not prevent them from relating to their country's past. This is an admirable trait that is yet to be instilled in the youth of some other cultures. It was those same youths who populated the portside eating mall to a large extent waiting, presumably, for their chance to be the parents of tomorrow.

    Our tour moves next to one of the oldest Buddhist Temples, Shitenno-Ji Temple. This is one of the oldest Buddhist temples, and it offers a peaceful and spiritual haven in one of the less prepossessing downtown districts. Inside is a souvenir and bric-a-brac flea market. The vendors and customers go into a shabby plastic structure to drink tea and to eat nourishing bowls of local soup or broth at knockdown prices

    In this communal eating establishment a number of senior citizens are dining. The faces of the elderly diners could have been models for those carved in the medieval tableaux at the Castle. The basic human warmth generated by the food providers and those eating is hugely appealing in these stark surroundings.

    The Temple consists of a series of three pagodas. Chanting monks in the first are surrounded by murals depicting the life of Buddha, and other artifacts. Further Buddhas are dotted around the place for those seeking enlightenment, as well as interesting statues of their Guardians. A pair of rampant Guardians adorn each entrance to the Temple as protection, one with mouth open representing birth (the first breath of a baby), the other with mouth closed (the moment of death).

    In fact, the most spiritual place is under the covered cloister surrounding the temples, which is away from the tourist and visitor throng. Standing quietly there, motionless, listening to the faint toll of the bell, which clangs at set intervals, one feels a real peace in the heart of what is quite a bustling city.${BestWay} The Kintetsu subway line takes the traveler without taxi or tourist coach to the heart of the 'night-time amusement area' (as charmingly described by the guide), where numerous restaurants, cafes and nightspots may be found. This would be a good spot to start a walking tour, as it appears to be surrounded by a quantity of small interesting local shops. On the other hand, the designer shops are in the area round the Daimaru department store, a chain across Japan, and all Italian and Western major designers exhibit there in what is a major economic powerhouse city. This is a grand expensive shopping boulevard area, and spending there will melt most credit cards very quickly. Bargains are hard to find.

    All in all, this is a clean, efficient, relatively safe city offering different delights to different travelers, and certainly encouraging its visitors to stop awhile, refresh themselves, and visit various attractions according to individual taste.
    From journal Osaka - Part 2