Vientiane’s Night Market

Food stalls in South East Asia markets specialize in one or two dishes; seldom is it possible to eat a complete meal in the western meaning just by sitting at one of them. At first sight the practice may seem impractical, but that does not make sense while speaking about pragmatic Asian people.

The explanation to the apparent paradox can be found by visiting a typical Asian market like the one in Vientiane. The vast majority of the denizens prefer eating at the market; even people who are obviously poor eat there. That means that eating there is cheaper than buying the ingredients and cooking at home.

Location

Vientiane’s Night Market spans several streets, from the promenade along the Mekong River through Khoun Bouloum, Sethathiarth and the adjacent streets.

Food

See my Laotian Snacks entry for a more detailed description of that cuisine; the main dishes eaten at night are listed here:

Chinese
A Chinese restaurant placed among the stalls supplies tasty dim sums and an excellent opportunity to compare between these two cuisines.

Kalapao
Similar to steamed Chinese dumplings, Kalapao are substantially bigger and filled with pork meat or a cooked egg and served very fresh, straight out of steaming bowls.

Grilled Chicken
Ping kai are half chickens skewed on sticks and grilled; grown in organic conditions, the chickens are rather small.

Bamboo Sticks
Bamboo sticks filled with sticky rice and coconut cream or beans are cooked on coals, afterwards the burned bamboo is peeled off and the sweet interior is eaten.

Squids
Grilled and press flattened squids are a popular and salty snack; they are of the fresh water type.

Pork Skin
Curled, fried bits of pork skin are as crispy as the freshest French fries and are a popular snack while contemplating colorful sunsets over the Mekong River.

Added Value

Many travelers snob local markets; some travel across the world and then eat at a fancy French restaurant identical to the ones at their hometown. However, sharing the local dishes with the denizens under the open sky and among structures built according to alien principles vastly enriches the traveler’s perspective and creates a golden opportunity for a direct, friendly and tasty contact with a new and different culture.

Safety

In certain cities visiting an open night market is a cause for worries. However, Laotians are friendly and easy-going; walking Vientiane streets is completely safe.

The food is clean and safe with the exception of nâm pa ("water-fish"), a fermented fish sauce which is ubiquitous but not recommended because sometimes it carries parasites, not that anyone would add it to the food after smelling it.

Relaxing

A dinner at the night market is more than a refueling ritual. The slowly walking denizens show that with every aimless step they take among the countless stalls. With every step they unload another worry until they seem to be weightless, happily floating between the Mekong River and the ever present - in spirit at least - Laotian full moon.

From journal Vientiane Vits: A Forced Alliteration