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Things To Do in Peshawar

Qawwali Music Evenings

  • Throughout Peshawar
    Peshawar

Qawwali Music Evenings

Qawwali musicMore Photos
If you are staying for a few days in Peshawar, you will probably be proposed to attend a qawwali music evening in a private house in the city centre. If you have used the services of a guide that day or the previous one, he will probably suggest you to attend it for free.

Qawwali is the traditional sufi music. Sufi mysticism is spread throughout Peshawar and you will probably be given an occasion to watch their rituals. Also beware: haschich circulates freely during those evenings and do not be offended if you are offered to have a puff. You are free to refuse, though.

These qawwali evenings are not exactly legal, and people will stand outside and in front of the windows watching for unusual movements outside. If ever the police arrives, music stops and all traces of smoking activity are cleared.

Since I felt adventurous that evening, I decided to join three other European tourists for an evening. Afghans (all Pashtos) welcomed us in a tiny room inside an old house near the city centre bazaar and showed us the music instruments. They started playing some music before letting us try the instruments. There was a rabab, a flute, and two banjos. I was allowed to take as many pictures as I wanted.

The music carried on for about half an hour before stopping for the evening prayer. The less religious Pashtos grabbed the opportunity to start rolling joints.

Then, it became increasingly mystic. The music itself alternate between slow and quick rhythms and the singers entered into a trance. That is when I decided to leave the room because I was starting to feel uncomfortable with the heavy smell of joints.

Before leaving the room, I was offered flowers: it is a local code to show that I attended a qawwali music evening. These flowers have an extremely nice soapy smell.

This kind of evenings can also be seen in Lahore (some legal, some not).
From journal Peshawar and Beyond