Quote: The phrase 'breathtaking' is over-used, but it is the only one that fits the Capella degli Scrovegni. The Scrovegni family were notorious for their usury—one was so bad he was denied a Christian burial and featured as a denizen of Hell in Dante's Inferno. To spare him that allotted fate his son commissioned a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary in 1303. Showing great taste, the painter Giotto was hired to do the decoration.

Giotto's art shows a vast progression from the Byzantine style iconic figures that can be seen elsewhere, such as St Mark's Basilica, Venice). Rather than flat static two-dimensional figures, Giotto's characters were much more naturalistic, with clear actions, shading, and expressions. The Capella degli Scrovegni is regarded as his greatest work, and is thus protected by Italian law.

That protection means visiting is complicated. Subsidence and moisture from the chapel's swampy location, damage from the Second World War, and the humidity caused by the breath of thousands of visitors have seriously imperilled the survival of Giotto's frescoes. As a result, the authorities have put into place a futuristic system of airlocks. Tickets have to be reserved in advance for specific half-hour slots. At the appointed time, no more than 25 people are allowed to enter the modern atrium, where you are held for 15 minutes as the humidity is brought down to match that of the chapel itself, and any pollutants are scrubbed from the air. You then have 15 minutes to admire the chapel before you are booted out and the next party is admitted.

Once inside, your eyes are caught by the luminous frescoes. Even after all this time, the blue of the starry heavens overhead is deep and rich. Three bands of scenes wrapping around the chapel tell the story, comic-strip-like, of Joachim and Anne, the life of their daughter Mary, the Nativity of Jesus, the Miracles of Jesus, the Passion, and the return from the dead. Unlike in the Baptistery, Jesus doesn't seem to mind Judas's kiss so much here, but St. Peter is present and still lopping off someone's ear.

The end wall shows the truly brilliant Last Judgement. The kneeling Scrovegni present Mary with the chapel. To one side, Lucifer and his hairy blue demons torture the damned. At the base, the seven virtues face seven vices, the best being the suicidal Despair facing Hope, the battle between Stupidity and Prudence, and a snake-tongued Envy arranged against Charity.

You need to plan in advance to visit the chapel, but it is well worth it. At least two days in advance visit www.capelladegliscrovegni.it to reserve a place at the time of your choice. A ticket is €12, but for €15 you can get a ticket plus a Padova Card (normally €14 by itself) that allows further discounts around town. Even if one is only here for a day, I would recommend the latter option. Take your reservation to the ticket office in the Museo to pick up your actual ticket.
From journals A Pilgrimage To Padua