Quote: Rousing the ranger from his last moments of slumber, he pointed towards darkness beyond the shack, and quickly disappeared. Eyes had adjusted by time trail was found, and I was quickly swallowed into Parque Nacional Metropolitano; the Capital's 655-acre city park that serves as a buffer zone in more ways than one.

Dawn was rapidly approaching; the forest awakening along with the city. Sounds of nearby traffic, and small commuter planes from Albrook Airport, stirred restlessness of fluttering birds and haunting yawns of howler monkeys. Compared to other pristine National Parks just beyond the city, this one's not nearly as spectacular but yet is a recommended haven for escaping chaos of Panamá City.

Beginning at Sendero La Cienaguita before 6am was matchless entree for reaching crest of a mirador as sun was skirting over la Bahiá de Panamá. Openings within the canopy afford panoramas toward Miraflores Locks and island hills of the Causeway, but nothing surpassed glittering of the skyline menagerie.

The mirador is lined with benches, and I could've; should've stayed longer for enjoying spectacular views but knew wildlife would soon retreat.

At base of the hill, trail merges into Camino del Mono Titi, forming a loop back to the ranger station. Feeders along the way promised signs of these monkeys, but only small capybara-type rodents were scurrying that morning. And after weeks in pursuit of spotting toucans, a clearing revealed a tree-top full, and I was finally content.

There was nothing difficult about these pathes; even initially exploring through darkness. Bilingual information placards detail aspects of the tropical forest and ample wildlife living here. Most revealing was tracking of birds that summer along the Ohio Valley's Erie Canal, before flying south to Panama's similar Canal environment.

From the back entrance, another pair of pathes loop frontward towards the visitor center, extending along borders with busy roadway beyond the fence. Most intriguing of this section was the large botanical shop with a deluge of potted tropicals. One could actually catch a cab at the back ranger's station and skip paying; not that it would matter.

A cluster of buildings and pavilions encircle the main entrance, and visitor center opens at 8am. There's a small giftshop and museum off the main lobby, which I perused several times (and could've robbed blind) while waiting for staff to finish morning gossip while I paced in full-view. Eventually, it took pounding on the counter for someone to come collect the $2 admission.

-- Prearranged guided tours are available after 8am, but aren't necessary. I highly recommend arriving by 6am to maximize the experience.

-- Taxis provide the only access. Wait along the main road for departures. Ability to haggle and willingness to share rides determines rate. When leaving, consider heading towards nearby Albrook terminal and mall, where 25¢ Diablos are available back into the city.
From journals Panamá City; the Capital Offenses