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Belize

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    South of the (Mexico) Border

    • eviet from Brooklyn
    • October 20, 2006
    A Long WalkMore Photos
    Belize is on the Caribbean, but it’s far from being a part of it. Typical Caribbean destinations do not mix jungle and sea; embrace a myriad of cultures, from Maya to Creole; or eschew mass tourism for the preservation of tradition and ecosystems. Even off the coast of popular island destination Ambergris Caye, reefs and the sea creatures that populate them are regarded with intense pride and protected with utmost zeal. And in the off season, the beach around tourist-town San Pedro is quiet, subdued, hibernating during the summer heat and September rains.

    The southern jungle district of Toledo, particularly Punta Gorda, is the country’s draw for those seeking a different kind of getaway. Island music from San Pedro bars become howler screams from dense rainforest, and beachfront timeshares transition into eco-tourist lodges like Machaca Hill. To fill days, you can swim darkened caves (some miles long, even crossing the border into Guatemala), or you can experience primitive Mayan towns through cultural immersion. The rainy season, from May to November, promotes lush surroundings, and during the night, thunderstorms rage overhead: even when asleep, the jungle’s encompassing presence holds strong.

    But those attached to seaside sands can still venture into remote territory at the Mayan site of Lamanai, a day trip from the cruise port of Belize City. The Mask, High, and Jaguar temples provide encompassing jungle views from their tops, but your guide will take you into the site’s storied past with the beliefs and history of the people who lived there. For active honeymooners and couples, the Lamanai Outpost Lodge, where they offer excursions like a crocodile “hunt,” submerges you beneath the cover of jungle existence.

    Throughout the country, its people, mainly of Mayan or African descent, display an affinity for extending open arms to foreigners as well as locals. Spanish and Creole are both heavily used, but since English is the official language of Belize (formerly British Honduras), the country’s large tourist population of Americans and British can converse freely. And while Belizean Creole is simply a dialect of English, its intonations, not to mention the speed at which it is spoken, are difficult, if not impossible, to comprehend for the unversed. Local ways and language are just two more persuasions, apart from the mild weather, varied terrain, and low cost of living, to one day join Belize’s expansive ranks of content expats.
    ${QuickSuggestions} Belize has a tropical climate, which translates into hot, humid weather, especially in the summer months. Dress accordingly, and don’t forget the DEET.

    US dollars are accepted almost anywhere: in a Toledo Mayan town, a local family accepted my $10 for a handmade craft. The exchange rate is US$2 to B$1.

    Choose your destination according to personality, Toledo for active adventurers and Ambergris Caye for beach bunnies, with Placencia as a compromise between the two.
    ${BestWay} In 8 days, we took four commuter planes: Belize City to Punta Gorda, Punta Gorda to Belize City, Belize City to San Pedro, and San Pedro to Belize City. At their low cost, some locals practically use them on a daily basis, and if planning a cross-country tour, you will too. Taxis are the recommended modes of ground transportation, unless you prefer driving in foreign countries, and in San Pedro, where private cars are banned, taxis and golf carts are your only choices. Thankfully for Americans, even with their British past, they drive on the right side of the road.
    From journal South of the (Mexico) Border