At some point, every Caribbean traveler has longed for more than the, "Chicken or fish?" dilemma that epitomizes island dining. Likewise, any visitor to France remembers that end-of-trip dinner when it seemed impossible to digest yet another decadent multi-course meal. But considering neither trip would be complete without those moments, what’s a taste-obsessed traveler to do? The answer is surprisingly simple: make haste to Martinique.

The cuisine on this little island is nothing short of a revelation (and I’m the girl who goes on vacation and plans dinner while I’m eating lunch). It’s a unique mix of Caribbean and French—fresh seafood and local spices enhanced with rich sauces and French culinary techniques. It’s Créole, but much more refined than the jazzy, attention-seeking New Orleans variety. This sort of Créole is focused on freshness and simple flavors, served with unabashed Caribbean joie du vivre.

Though it’s sort of missing the point to reduce the fabulous food experiences in Martinique to a short list, I do have a word limit, and food- and word-lover that I am, I have to reign myself in. So here are the three things no self-respecting foodie should miss in Martinique:

Chili oil

This flavored oil infused with hot peppers—and I mean hot peppers—can be sprinkled over fish, salads, bread, and pretty much anything else you can imagine. This is the kind of good stuff that leaves your lips burning and ignites the flavor of anything it touches. If you’re at all wary of spicy food, steer clear; those who can tolerate it will appreciate the earthy, salty taste behind the spice.

Ice cream

The French invented ice cream, and when you combine this know-how with luscious, impossibly ripe island fruits, well, let me just say I’m pretty sure this is one portal to foodie heaven. Order it whenever possible; don’t even start with the nonsense about being too full for dessert.

Accras

These are the Martinican hors d’ouevre, appetizer, and snack of choice. I’d imagine you can’t really run a restaurant or even a respectable home kitchen here without knowing how to make them. The funny thing is, while the fried codfish fritters—a mixture of batter and salted cod—will seem far too omnipresent by the end of your trip, you’ll be craving them soon after you return home.${QuickSuggestions} I would be remiss if I neglected to mention Martinique’s pride and joy: rum. This is no Captain Morgan’s, folks; it’s no-nonsense, concentrated stuff, and the classic way to serve it is in a ti'punch. A mixture of Martinican rum and sugarcane juice with a twist of lime, it looks innocuous—ti is in fact short for "petite"—but one sip makes those fruity concoctions adorned with little umbrellas seem like the dowdy aunts of the island drink family. It was a little much for me, so I opted for other rum drinks, like the planteur (planter’s punch), which gave me a little fruit juice with that bite.

If you’re a fan of sparkling water, order a Didier—naturally sparkling mineral water bottled from the Didier spring (hence the name) in Martinique. It’s rich in magnesium and rumored to have curative properties.

Finally, a fresh chili pepper is often served on a little plate for the table. Just mince up a bit with the provided knife and add it to whatever dish needs a little zing; this is perfect for those who prefer to maintain a little control over the spice in their food.${BestWay} It’s up to you—just make sure you do get around. I would strongly discourage signing up for any all-inclusive option on this island; if you’re looking for a convenient, stay-put vacation, pick another destination. Martinique does offer that experience (the new five-star Club Med, opening in December 2005, is a case in point), but it would be a crying shame to miss the variety of gastronomic delights this island has to offer. Ask the locals, read your guidebooks, ask other tourists, or just drive around and see what looks good—but by all means, do some tasteful exploring. It is, in my opinion, one of the highlights of a trip here.

See my other Martinique overviews for more general info on getting around the island.

From journal An Unexpected Gourmet Turn Along the Beaten Path