No matter how much of the Caribbean you’ve traveled, Martinique will be a whole new experience. You can still go sailing or swimming and then get a massage in an open-air cabana overlooking the ocean, but—let’s be honest—you can do that anywhere. Beyond the beach, Martinique takes on a richer form—a personality that's colorful not because of brightly painted houses or reggae motifs, but because of the island’s fascinating history and unique brand of Créole culture.

Martinique lies in the Windward chain of Caribbean islands, just south of Dominica and north of St. Lucia. The "Island of Flowers" exhibits a lush volcanic landscape, capped by the iconic Mount Pelée. Though it has changed hands multiple times—from France to Britain and back again—its culture is unmistakably French. In fact, if it weren’t for the glimpses of ocean and emerald pitons in the distance, you might forget you’re not in France. Old-fashioned boulangeries and ice-cream shops dot the streets of fishing villages, French is the predominant language, and France’s social welfare system lends the island a functional, self-assured feeling—quite a departure from the stark poverty and aggressive pursuit of tourist dollars found on many Caribbean islands.

Perhaps most notable, however, is Martinique’s omnipresent history. Anse Latouche, a historic site-cum-botanical garden, was cultivated among the ruins of perhaps the oldest dwelling in Martinique, destroyed in the catastrophic 1902 eruption of Mount Pelée. The Musée de la Pagerie is housed in the restored kitchen quarters of the plantation where Empress Josephine (Napoleon Bonaparte’s first wife) was born. Popular traditional Créole restaurant Le Ghetto, in Marigot, is housed in what was at various points a slave-run factory, a school, and a jail. Even the exquisitely landscaped Trois Ilet golf course occupies the grounds of an old sugarcane mill, and Josephine is rumored to have had her first kiss by the nearby river.

I’m certainly no stranger to the pleasures of beach vacationing, but it’s not often that you find those gorgeous beaches juxtaposed with a multifaceted culture, fabulous food that would hold its own in any cosmopolitan city, and the kind of biography that imparts hard-earned charisma. Martinique is a juicy slice of France in the Caribbean, where history is inescapable and vibrant local culture is deeply ingrained. ${QuickSuggestions} Though most hotel and tourism staff speak English, it’s helpful to know a few key French phrases in order to break free of the tourist bubble and find Martinique’s true riches. Even a friendly "Bonjour" or "Bonsoir" in greeting will go a long way in enriching your interactions with locals.

Do some quick reading on the island’s history before you go; it will help you decide which historical elements pique your interest (and trust me, there are so many, you’ll need to narrow it down) and get you primed and excited for your visit to Martinique.

Visit Martinique's tourism website for general information about the island.

Find out more about the history of slavery in Martinique.

Read up on Martinique’s political history.

Consult Lonely Planet for the short-and-sweet version.

Learn more about the Mount Pelée eruption. ${BestWay} Unfortunately, getting to Martinique from the U.S. is no picnic. From New York, I had to transfer twice—once in San Juan and once in Guadeloupe (just north of Dominica)—and fly two different airlines in the process. The trip is a day-long ordeal, and with precious little vacation time, it can be hard to give up two full days to travel. However, after a five-year absence, American Airlines will be making a return to Martinique with American Eagle on December 15, 2005, which will make travel there significantly quicker and easier.

On the island, it’s best to either rent a car—roads are excellent—or hire a taxi. With a knowledgeable driver and guide, your trip will come alive with countless historical points of interest you might miss otherwise. I was fortunate to see the island with an excellent driver and guide, Bernadette Ducteil, a native Martinican who speaks fluent English, knows the island like the back of her hand, and brightens every experience with her infectious laugh. Call her at 0596 51 31 87 or 0696 25 64 14, or email her at roma.dedette@wanadoo.fr, to book your time in her cheery turquoise van.

From journal An Unexpected Cultural Turn Along the Beaten Path