Having traveled frequently to the south of Portugal, I had longed to visit the north, and it lived up to expectations. On this trip, we stayed mainly in Pousadas staying from 1-2 nights depending on our whim. We left lots of room for impromptu diversions despite booking ahead prior to arriving at most of our accommodations.

Anyone who has visited these regions, Tras os Montes, Douro, and Bierras will know that the difficult terrain, scarce resources, and bitterly cold winters have over many centuries formed the character of a people used to hard work. It is staggering to think of the amount of work that must have gone into building these terraces. They soar to the tops of mountains and down to the edge of streams. It is an enchanted countryside. The pousadas of Portugal are usually housed in restored convents, castles, manor houses, and medieval villages all of which promise an unforgettable stay. In this journal, I will cover mainly accommodation.${QuickSuggestions} We purchased a book of vouchers "Pousada Passport" from our travel agent. We pre-booked only our first night--from there, we mapped our route and had the pousada staff make our onward reservations. Breakfast was included at all pousadas.

The pousadas of Portugal were established in 1942. Historic pousadas are always located within the original site. All their buildings blend in with local architecture and maintain the flavor of local traditions. They offer every comfort and usually panoramic views. They have three categories: historic ( historic design, restored to represent historic aspects), charm, and nature (usually within the natural setting of the region). We stayed in one that was located in a walled town; the pousada was part of a group of original houses. {Next journal}

Regional cuisine is the specialty of the pousada restaurants. A four-night pass costs approximately €290, with a €50 surcharge for Friday and Saturday nights. A 20% discount voucher is also provided for use in the restaurant.

More information can be found at www.pousadasofportugal.com ${BestWay} A car is essential in this area. We hired ours from Auto Europe and picked it up in Porto. There are good roads from Porto to Braganca. We preferred to travel the local roads we didn’t need to hurry and enjoyed the scenery.

Be prepared to share the road with donkeys laden with baskets of straw or produce, usually ridden by women seated sidesaddle. You may also see magnificent oxen with long lyre-shaped horns hauling hay, olives, or casks of wine.

Portuguese are immensely patient with persons struggling to speak their sibilant language; if you try, it will elicit a big smile. However, their character changes when they get behind a wheel--they zoom along the serpentine roads as if the devil was chasing them.

From journal Portugal: A World Of Its Own. North& Pousadas Part 1