Dhaka is the capital of Bangladesh, one of the most densely populated countries on earth. With an estimated 12 million people crowding into a relatively small area, Dhaka too, is often crowded, dirty, noisy and overwhelming. Then just when you find it all too much, you discover a small lake, a tree-lined avenue or a large park which quickly take you away from the muddle and clutter into a different world.
The origins of the city can be seen today in the crowded quarter known as Old Dhaka. Here you see remnants of what Bangladeshi urban life has been for decades. The streets are narrow, the sidewalks overflow with hawkers and you would never for a moment think you were anywhere else but South Asia. This is a part of the city you must experience.
A complete contrast is provided by the Gulshan area. This where the embassies are located, the diplomats and wealthy locals live and where Westernization is at its height. It is a wonderful respite from other parts of the city but it could almost be in any city in the world. If you plan a long visit, stay here but don’t forget the interest and intrigue just outside. ${QuickSuggestions} Walk the streets of Old Dhaka for a true appreciation of Bangladeshi life and culture. Look down the alleys, peer into windows, observe the old facades and join in the modern commerce. Don’t miss a chance to get out on the river. There are hundreds of small boats which can take you across to the other side or for a trip amongst the other ships, barges and water craft.
Find a hotel or guest house in Gulshan when you need a break from the crowds, noise, dust and pollution. There are some great restaurants here (see the Dhaka Dining entry) and a growing number of interesting shops and markets. Take a rickshaw ride in this area because you will be safe and the richshaw driver may even speak a little English. A kilometer or so will cost you Tk10-20. ${BestWay} In old Dhaka, you must walk. In Gulshan, you can take a rickshaw. To travel between the two areas you can try a three-wheeler CNG where you will have to negotiate a fare. The correct rate is probable around Tk100 but as a foreigner you will be expected to pay more. Some drivers start to negotiate at Tk1000. The alternative is a taxi. There are several types but most have meters and some even use them. Expect to pay about Tk200 for this trip. No doubt you can also go by bus but that was just too complicated for me as there seems to be no bus map, English signs, or many people who know anything about routes other than the one they regularly use.