Quote: This 18th-century manor house, set in a 27-hectare working vineyard, is sumptuous and peaceful. We spent two nights here before crossing into Spain. The house once belonged to a high-ranking politician, but when he died in 1916, the house fell into disrepair but was fully restored in 1962. Its setting in the midst of the Douro wine region makes it a popular spot, especially for wine-tasting enthusiasts.

The plain façade of the building reminded me of a French château, white and gold plaster and black wrought-iron balconies. Once you enter the main hallway, you feel you are in another era. Beautiful granite floor and intricate wall tiles remind you that you are in Portugal. Handmade carpets blend in nicely, but the focal point is a large, carved table holding a huge container of fragrant flowers. Rustic seating is set into the walls, and a grand stone staircase leads the eye upward.

On the first floor are public sitting rooms filled with fine traditional gilt and plush furnishings that complement the theme of the manor house. Our room overlooked the lovely Douro River and valley. Despite the room being a little cramped, its decor was in keeping with the theme: sturdy furniture, wall tapestries, and heavy draperies. The bathroom was moderate in size, with all toiletries, shower, and robes. Fresh flowers added another nice touch. TV {satellite}, air-conditioning, minibar, and safe were also included. Breakfast was included in the room rate of €190 per night. The hot and cold buffet breakfast was varied, very well-presented, and abundant.

We did not use the outdoor pool or the tennis court, but we did eat our evening meals here and found the service and food top-class. There is a wine cellar, lectures, and wine-and-cheese evenings. We loved to wander through the vineyard, especially observing children helping their parents. There is a formal garden with well-placed benches--great spots for watching the incredible sunsets. We enjoyed our time here; it was an oasis. The staff was friendly and helpful. This pousada is a good stop on the way to and from Spain and for visiting this region.

I am told there is a boat from Porto that takes guests along the wine route and past lovely vineyards with an overnight here. Contact the hotel for information. We visited Regua a few times; it is a small, charming town, but mainly of interest to wine aficionados. Don’t drink too much wine in town, as the drive along the riverside is on a narrow serpentine road, jammed at times with huge trucks or the occasional donkey and cart.

From journals Portugal: A World Of Its Own. North& Pousadas Part 1