I never quite got clear whether Mandalay was named after Mandalay Hill or vice-versa. Since the Buddha, himself, is said to have visited Mandalay Hill, I’ll go with the former. As the legend tells it, when Buddha reached the top he stretched out his hand to the plain below and prophesied that a great city and religious center would be founded at its base.
Unsurprisingly, given its history, the hill is covered with numerous pagodas and religious shrines, including, most notably, the Shweyattaw Temple. Approximately two-thirds of the way up the hill, it houses a large golden standing statue of the Buddha in a dramatic pose with his right hand pointing toward the Royal Palace and the city below. His faithful disciple, Ananda, prays at his side.
There is another notable shrine lower down the hill that houses the Peshawar Relics, reputed to be three bones of the Buddha. Perhaps, because it was the British instead of “true believers” who brought the relics from Pakistan and presented them to the local Buddhist Society, they don’t seem to get the attention or reverence you would expect.
There are two ways to ascend the hill. One is to deposit your shoes at the Southern gate and climb the 1729 steps to the summit. With many landings, the climb is, evidently, not as difficult as one might think. The other is to pay a small fee of 500 to 1000 Kyat to have one of the many pick-up trucks at the bottom of the hill take you to the escalator which you can then ride to the top. Since we had a car and driver, our choice was a no-brainer, though we did miss seeing the Shweyattaw Pagoda. Many people ride to the top and walk down the steps carrying their shoes. We considered that option but by the time we were ready to descend it was already dark.
At the top of the 230m high hill, sits the Su-Taung-Pyi (Wish-granting) Pagoda. The Pagoda includes an extensive pavilion that provides incredible 360º views of the Royal Palace, the City of Mandalay, the Ayeyarwaddy River, and the surrounding countryside. The pavilion also has many shops selling religious artifacts and other souvenirs, food stalls, fortune tellers, and street musicians. We realized, as we wandered around waiting for the sunset, how closely religion is integrated into the daily life of the people.
One feature I found interesting was the collection of photos taken over the years from the top of the hill. I got a sense of how things have changed. The earliest photos are from the 1890s and continue until about 1970.
Religious history, aside, we were there to enjoy the sunset which was spectacular. I was particularly taken with how as the sun went down the mist moved in from the river. Sunsets are much more hazy and long-lasting but no less beautiful than the ones from my wife Pam's home state of Montana.
The entrance fee is $5.
From journal Myanmar - Road to Mandalay