Mahamuni (Great Sage) Pagoda

South of 41st Street, East of 83rd St.
Mandalay

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Mahamuni (Great Sage) Pagoda

June 12, 2006

by Ed Hahn from Hong Kong

Mahamuni Pagoda ExteriorMore Photos
This is possibly the most popular Paya in Mandalay. It certainly provides fascinating insights into the religious practices and devotion of the people of Myanmar. The original Paya was built in 1784 and was rebuilt after a fire in 1890. It exists to house a most revered Buddha image.

Nobody knows how old the Buddha image is. Legend has it that the original bronze statue was modeled from an image of the living Buddha. Originally from Arakan, it is considered to be the holiest image in Myanmar. It is heavily covered in gold leaf to the point that it is impossible to even guess at what the original image must have looked like. Male worshippers continuously apply gold leaf as an act of devotion. Women are not allowed into the central chamber.

It is estimated that nearly two tons of gold is encrusted on the 13-foot high image. The gold crown and the body ornaments it wears are solid gold and many precious gems donated by pious devotees such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, jades, diamonds, pearls, etc., are attached to the body.

You do not have to be a practicing Buddhist to apply gold leaf, just male. I thought about doing it myself but when I saw the crowd of worshippers jostling one another to get to the statue, I passed on the opportunity. During festivals it gets so crowded that worshippers can only see the image on closed circuit TV. In a ceremony, I was sorry to have missed; monks wash the face and brush the teeth of the image each morning.

The image was originally captured along with six Khmer bronze figures, two men or guardians, three lions, and a three headed elephant called an Erawan. These figures are believed to have originated in Angkor Wat. Since these figures survived the trip to Myanmar they are believed to have magical properties. People with ailments come to rub the bronze statues, in the place corresponding to where it hurts them, in hopes of being cured. You can see where most of the rubbing takes place in one of the photos below.

One man stuck his finger in a guardian’s navel. I asked Bruce, our guide, what that was about, and he said the guy most likely had indigestion. I still don’t know if Bruce was kidding or not.

As in many Asian temples, there is a large tank of turtles and fish. These are protected as an act of life saving charity. Turtles also represent fertility so people come here to wish for a child.

In another building, there is a five ton gong hanging from a pole stretched between two large statues. It is evidently used in various ceremonies. I resisted the temptation to see what kind of a sound it would make.

Admission is $5. I was told I couldn’t take pictures of the Buddha image but the rule is not enforced.
From journal Myanmar - Road to Mandalay