We’d had a quick ride around Polis, and I have to say that it had little to commend. There were a few old houses with interesting arched windows and doors and a church that took my fancy. However, when we finally managed to enter the grounds, it was closed! We headed east to check out this coastline.
A small heavily vined taverna took our fancy, and we pulled in to order lunch, thinking that we’d head back to Pafos when we’d eaten. It wasn’t much to look at, with large wooden tables and a "shack" as the kitchen and bar, but its small menu promised everything cooked whilst you wait. It was clearly a small family business and picked up "passing trade" on the Polis – Kato Pyrgos Road. We had a great Greek salad, a plate of olives, loads of french fries, plenty of bread, and a couple of beers for £5. The chips were piping hot; indeed, we’d heard the potatoes hitting the sizzling, hot oil as they were cooked for us, and the staff at the Argaka was really very attentive. As we were about to leave, the owner’s son strongly recommended that we continue eastwards and take in the superb scenery and visit the church of St Rafael at Kokkina. We had time – we’d give it a whirl.
The views between Polis and Pomos are clear and uninterrupted, and there are such great views of a well-weathered, rugged coastline with the waves pounding onto the beach. I reckon we’d have seen some great sunsets here (perhaps next year)! I made the mistake at one point of wanting to stop to enjoy the view and am just thankful that the driver behind was more attentive than me. I received a nasty glare from the driver (deserved, I guess) and ensured that I didn’t stop suddenly again.
The small fishing resort of Posmos is worth a stop-off. It is obviously trying to pander to tourists, and a hotel and large restaurant have pride of place at the harbour. The village is uninspiring, but a newly rebuilt harbour provides a focus and a glimpse of the schizophrenic nature of Posmos. Small rundown fishing vessels are moored alongside pleasure craft, and a couple of well-maintained beaches suggest a strong move into tourism. Just down the coastal road (watch the potholesm as this road has seen better days), the small hamlet of Pacyammos is unspoilt and, other than a reasonable beach, seems unaware that tourists may bring wealth to the village. Perhaps they don’t want it, or it may just be round the corner as these small villages step on the tourist bandwagon. It seems like now’s the time to investigate the area around Morfu Bay.
Off the main road are a number of small un-adopted roads leading to villages unaffected by the tourist trade. They won’t take much of your time, but it’s in these foothills that the real Cyprus continues to prosper.
From journal Polis to Pahpos