To the west of Polis is sign posted with "the baths of Aphrodite," and who could resist heading in that direction. We certainly couldn’t!
The route takes you alongside the water’s edge and through the quaint fishing village of Latsi. Well, I’m sure it was quaint at some stage in its existence, but now it just seemed like a long row of tatty souvenir shops interspersed with seaside restaurants We didn’t stop, but I guess if you’re a swimmer or a fisher, this coastline will have some attraction, and the beach was certainly in full use with its gaudy display of parasols and sun loungers.
The baths (Loutra is Aphrodite) is at the end of a decent road and culminates in a car parking area at the edge of the small village. I guess that in the summer season it will be difficult to park, but we had no trouble at all in September. Surrounding the car park are the predictable souvenir stalls selling commemorative tat, reasonably priced guidebooks, and drinks (the latter are a little bit pricey, but not exorbitantly so). Take a stroll round the village (typical Greek accommodations) and make sure you cross the road from the car park to take in the stupendous views of the sea and the island of Saint George.
The route to the baths is clearly marked, and we headed off for our trek to see Aphrodite’s boudoir. We had no idea of the distance, but the path clearly guided us in the right direction through a variety of trees (all marked with their names) and small plants. It was an interesting walk that turned out to be only about 5 minutes from the car park.
In a strange way, the baths were everything we’d expected them to be. They were nestled in the heart of a small wooded area, only a stone’s throw away from the sea, and had a curious intimacy to them. When I say "them," I really mean "it," because the single cave, dominated by a tree affording shade and privacy, has a loan waterfall providing a steady supply of pure and fresh water. Flat rocks both within the pool and around the edge could easily provide a safe and dry area for the goddess of love and her many maidens in waiting, an area she would regularly frequent between liaisons with her many lovers.
But I wax lyrically about the goddess Aphrodite’s bath when in reality I should remind myself that this is a natural beauty spot that is worthy of inspection in its own right. There’s a giant cedar that protects its entrance, many beautiful flowers en route, and the constant chirping of elusive birds. They sound exotic, but I reckon they’re not – still, imagination is a wonderful thing. But the waterfall is miniscule, and without the myth and fantastic views surrounding it, I guess that no one would be bothered to visit.
From journal Polis to Pahpos