After a somewhat disappointing visit to
Ilet Chancel, we where whisked away in our plush motorboat to
Josephine’s Bathtub, a popular water excursion destination. It’s one of many
fonds blanc in the area—spots where the ocean floor rises up to within a few feet of the surface, creating a shallow pool in the middle of the sea. Josephine is rumored to have bathed there while growing up in Martinique; whether "bathe" is meant literally is up for debate, but in any case, suits stay on, please.
As it happened, Josephine’s Bathtub was packed with visitors that day, so we detoured to an alternative fond blanc. It was exactly as it was described—nothing more, nothing less—and it did make for a relaxing stop. Our driver stopped the boat in the middle of the pool and offered us fresh juice, rum punch, and accras (see my Gourmet Martinique Overview) while we lazed in the water. It was a bit surreal, bobbing around in what looked to be the middle of a huge, deep ocean. The serenity was somewhat lessened by the presence of several other large groups, but 1) you’re talking to someone who likes her beaches and oceans completely deserted, and 2) it was a sunny Saturday—the crowds might be less or even completely absent on weekdays or cloudier days. And if you’re the social type who likes meeting new people, well, there’s no place like the middle of the Atlantic to do it! A local told us that groups actually come out equipped with floating grills, coolers full of drinks, and music, making an all-day party of the trip.
As for the Cap Est catamaran trip itself, I have nothing but good things to say. Our guide was friendly, professional, and an able driver. He was kind enough to guide us around Ilet Chancel and assist us on and off the boat; when we returned to Cap Est and had to wade to shore, he graciously carried all our shoes through the water. Bottled water was available throughout the trip, there was an interior compartment to store bags en route (great for protecting cameras from the ocean spray), and when we stopped at the fond blanc, a number of hidden compartments in the boat opened up to reveal a surprising number of refreshment options. The boat was comfortable, roomy, and didn’t leave me seasick, as boats often do.
A word of warning: I recommend you reapply sunscreen at least 20 times an hour. Yes, I am fair-skinned, but even those in our group who claimed they "never burn" came away crisped by the sun. With the combination of midday sun, the light reflecting off the water, and the white surfaces of the boat (which provides very little shade), you will burn.
Guests of Cap Est should contact the front desk about arranging a catamaran trip of their own.
From journal An Unexpected Natural Turn Along the Beaten Path