Start at St Peter’s Metro Station, crossing North Bridge Street and continuing along Dame Dorothy Street. After five minutes you’ll see St Peter’s Church on your right. The history of the church dates back to 674AD when Benedict Biscop built a monastery on the site, importing craftsmen from France and Rome. The Venerable Bede, England’s first historian, started his monastic life here before moving to Jarrow; during the Dark Ages the twin monasteries were two of the last communities of religious learning in the whole of Europe. Although nothing remains of the original monastery above ground today, the church retains an original Saxon tower and there is a small exhibition inside.

Walk on until you reach a roundabout, where a right turn will bring you to riverside and the new National Glass Centre, whose grim looking steel and glass exterior belies the interesting, though slightly overpriced, exhibition space inside. There are permanent displays on the history of glassmaking in the city as well as temporary exhibitions by living artists which change every few months.

Head back up to Dame Dorothy Street, turning right in the direction of the seafront. The revamped Sunderland Marina is visible back on the riverfront, crammed with small boats it forms a stark contrast to the few fishing boats bobbing up and down on the river in front of the remaining shipyard cranes. Roker Beach starts at the end of the street, a wide stretch of sand running away from the long pier, limestone cliffs and concrete paths linking ice cream huts and amusement arcades. Walk north along the beach until you reach the more developed resort at Seaburn, starting on the other side of a whitewashed lighthouse. All the quintessential components of a British seaside holiday are present: a slate grey sea; kids racing along the sand, swerving to avoid the sharp pebbles; adults hunched inside windbreakers; rock pools; a blustery pier; an old train carriage converted into a restaurant; shacks selling ice cream and fish and chips; the smell of salt & vinegar; lager as warm as the air temperature; the dismal string of lights on the front of noisy amusement arcades; local radio piped over a cheap tannoy system; abandoned sandcastles and a half empty fairground.

Chichester Road runs inland opposite the lighthouse, merging into Sea Road and continuing up to Seaburn Metro Station and the nearby Fullwell Windmill. Built in the early 19th century, the structure has been restored in recent years and is now the only working windmill in the region. Guided tours go up to the top floor, where you can see the machinery working and look out across the city. Opening times vary, but the windmill is generally open only at weekends and during school holidays.