Chenonceau is one of the most beloved Chateaux.It is one of
the most visited
chateaux in the Loire Valley. At least, crowds were in evidence
the day we visited! Because it straddles the River Cher, it is more romantic, and many
want to see its spectacular foundations rising from the water. Some folks want to see the
building projects and designs directed by the women who lived there--the design is
referred to as "feminine." Others want to see famous portraits of these women,
particularly those commissioned by Henry II of his mistress Diane de Poitiers. One of
those is by Le Primatice:
Rubens,
Tintoret, Van Loo, Murillo, and others.
The castle is a virtual museum of royal
artwork visitors can’t see anywhere else. I was amused at the portrait of Catherine of
Medici plastered into the fireplace so that it could not be removed. (This is in Diane’s
former bedroom, and Catherine, Henry’s wife, kicked the mistress out and moved in
herself after Henry’s death.) The beautiful chimney is by Jean Goujon, a French sculptor
from the Fontainebleau School, so the plaster job had to be a good one, and I suppose
Catherine figured that nobody would dare ruin that artwork by removing her
portrait, recognized as "stern."
Many
, many paintings.
Also in Diane’s bedroom is "Virgin with Child" by Murillo,
and the chapel has another of his paintings (St. Antoine of Padua) and
Assumption by Jouvenet. The "Green Study" of Catherine de Medici, regent at
her husband’s death, is even more replete with art: Tintoret, Jordaens, Veronese,
Poussin, and Van Dyck. The library displays an Andrea del Sarto, and Francois I’s
Bedroom, a self-portrait by Van Dyck and The Three Graces (three sisters,
favorites of Louis XV) by Van Loo.
.jpg)
Van Loo’s Portrait of King Louis XV is in
the Louis XIV Living Room. Here, we met another of the "Dames of Chenonceau,"
Madame Dupin (portrait by Nattier), of interest to literary folk as grandmother of George
Sand and host to Voltaire.
Dames to the rescue!
The women of the
chateau saved it from destruction several times by making it available for other uses:
hospital during WWI, "Free Zone" during WWII, wood store during the Revolution.
Today, it is art and history museum and World Heritage treasure. Tapestries alone could
furnish a museum of that industry. Plus, it was the home of other notable women, such
as Louise of Lorraine, "the White Queen," perpetually mourning Henry III. Mary Stuart,
Queen of Scotland, was also related and a visitor. An original builder, Katherine
Briconnet, worked on the design alone while her husband was in Italy.
Chenonceau is truly "The Dames’ Chateau."
Before we left.
We
skipped the wax museum in preference to sitting outdoors with pastries at the Orangerie.
Anyone would want to linger on the grounds. David went to study the ramparts’
structures rising from the water, but I was "finished" after two chateaux in one
day! The train back to Tours would soon be just down the lane.
From journal Touring Chateaux from Azay-le-Rideau