I never thought I’d be sitting at an elegantly set table, eating a luscious French meal on a breezy terrace… during a trip to the Caribbean. Then again, this was Martinique, a place as much a part of France as a link in the Antillean island chain. After a morning prowling the Fort-de-France spice market, amassing bags of local cinnamon, cocoa, and vanilla, our appetites were all-systems-go, and our lovely guide knew just where to take us.
Hidden away up an inconspicuous driveway in the wealthy Didier neighborhood of Fort-de-France, La Belle Epoque serves up traditional French fare—infused with the freshest Caribbean ingredients, of course—in a beautiful turn-of-the-century home. Classic details are everywhere, from the luxe fabric used to upholster the dining chairs to the antique Victrola that greets visitors at the entrance. The former great room of the house has been converted to the main dining area, but we were seated at a table on the side terrace, surrounded by shady lawn and colorful flowers.
The midday menu was prix-fixe, including an entrée (which means "appetizer", funnily enough), plat (main course), and dessert. Entrée options included foie gras, beef carpaccio, and melon with proscuitto; available plats were roasted duck with herbs and a filet of dorade (mahimahi) with a cream sauce; for dessert was a warm chocolate torte or a trio of sorbets. This seemed like a good place to try foie gras for the first time, so I chose that as my entrée, followed by the duck and the sorbet.
Always a sucker for pretty packaging, I was completely bowled over by the presentation. I don’t usually take pictures of my food, preferring instead to dive into it the moment it hits the table, but this was a special circumstance. While several other people at the table—foie gras veterans—raved about the dish here, I wasn’t crazy about it. However, after trying it a few more times since then, I’ve concluded that I just don’t have a taste for foie gras (and I call myself a food fanatic!). The duck was also beautifully presented, if a little dry; however, the side dishes were fantastic—creamy puréed artichoke was my favorite. Sorbets were served simply, in a wonderful combination of flavors: mango (the standard, but still one of my favorites), mandarin, and blood orange (tangy and refreshing, balancing the sweetness of the other two flavors). Other diners had different combinations of flavors, but all were delicious.
La Belle Epoque’s menu changes every day, at each meal, depending on what catch is fresh and what herbs, vegetables, and fruits are in season. I was slightly more impressed by the environment and presentation than the food; however, I would return in a heartbeat for a taste of another menu. The memorable setting, knowledgeable and friendly service, and solid cuisine make La Belle Epoque a must-visit.
Read its review in Frommer’s for a second opinion.
From journal An Unexpected Gourmet Turn Along the Beaten Path