on May 21, 2008
This is a special occasion restaurant, dressier and pricier than the standard neighborhood cafe or mom-and-pop diner. It's ornate, especially for Hilo, with gilded frames on antique paintings, chairs of vintage velvet, koa walls, and a tile floor. The fresh catch is offered five ways, from reduced=cream and Parmesan to capers and wine. The paper thin ahi carpaccio is garnished with capers, red onion, garlic, lemon, olive oil, and shaved Parmesan, and its delicious. Chicken, veal, and fish Marsala, a rich and garlicky scampi Alfredo, and the Fra Diavolo, a spicy seafood marinara, are the headlivers on a long and satisfying menu. At lunch, pasta marinara is simple and satisfying and rivals the chicken Parmesan as one of the values of the day.
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