on April 3, 2008
The Stein Eriksen Lodge continues their superb lunch buffet during ski season, but not all disheswere equally successful. I once had some first rate veal in America. It was not Stein’sSaltimbacca, which was also adversely affected by a plie of corn salsa on top which coved up thedelicate flavors of Saltimbacca. Even the salsa couldn’t disguise the taste of typically inferiorAmerican veal. The swordfish entree and the scallop & shrimp salad featured seafood too longremoved from the sea. Breast of Quail rubbed with coriander had a nice flavor, but was way overcooked– well dried out. Take these shortcomings in context-- in the vast majority of American restaurants, these flawsdishes would be hailed as superior meals, it is only in comparison to what Stein’s does right thatthey fall short. Now the good the news.The desert table was a collection of endless delights. The first thing I did was pick up two superbCreme Brulees. So was the Caramel Flan, Rum Cheesecake, and Chocolate Decadence. It’sfascinating in a place that makes fine deserts how different creme brûlée and flan can be in bothtaste and texture, although both are made from eggs and cream. Other outstanding offering on the buffet were the Tropical Fruit and Couscous Salad, Chillirubbed roast beef with a port au jus, asparagus, and the fresh fruit platter, although the muskmelon was a bit insipid. The cold shrimp were pretty good, but I’ve had better. We have visited Stein’s buffet 2-3 a year for the last eight years, and I’m convinced that nobodycan sample everything that is offered, but give it a try-- take small servings. Do not slight thedesert table. If you don’t eat at least six deserts, you have not done it justice. Do not plan onskiing after lunch. Pig out, so the buffet covers both lunch and diner. If you total up what youwould pay for lunch and diner in Park City, the Skier’s Buffet at $31 (includes drinks) is a majorbargain and among the best meals you will find in Park City. The Sunday and Christmas Day versions of the Skier’s Buffet are considerable more expensiveand not worth the extra money. Service generally prompt and friendly, although we had an inordinately long wait to get our billpaid.The Skier’s Buffet is served in the Glitretinde Restaurant. You can also order from the regularlunch menu. We have eaten lunch and dinner many times at the Glitretinde, and none of thesemeals compared favorably to the buffet for quality or value.Skiers get to Stein’s Lodge from the top of Deer Valley’s Viking lift. The Buffet is immediatelyto the right when you enter the Lodge. If driving, there is valet parking in the Stein’s garage. The free Park City shuttle bus stops just down hill from Stein’s in front of Deer Valley’s mid-mountain plaza.
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