Often, the most unfortunate travel experiences lead to the best stories. In this case, somewhat confusing information regarding bus timetables led to my being stranded at Stari Grad’s ferry terminal, 20km from Hvar Town, along with three college students who were also staying here. Buffeted by the legendarily fierce bura wind, which often cancels ferries, and despairing of any other safe means of reaching the pension, we called Mr. Ćurin, who had offered to pick us up at the Hvar Town bus station. Rather than being irritated at the long drive, his only concern was that we hadn’t telephoned sooner!
Location: Pension Curin’s only possible drawback is its location, west of Hvar Town’s central harbor. As the pension is located on a hill overlooking the harbor, the walking time (the most sensible way to get to the harbor) varies whether you are traveling into Hvar Town (approximately 10 minutes) or back to the hotel (20 minutes). As the journey is quite an attractive one, I didn’t mind, and I personally appreciated the distance from Hvar’s relatively busy center. Pension Ćurin also has the advantage of being quite close to Hvar’s beaches (which are to the west of the harbor) and a food store (should you choose to use the shared-kitchen facilities), which, in my mind, made up for its distance from the harbor. However, in choosing where to stay in Hvar, your calculations may well be different.
Rooms: Although I booked a single room, Mr. Ćurin very kindly gave me a double room, as the pension was largely empty. The room itself was extremely cosy, although since it was on the top floor beneath his house’s slanted room, part of the ceilings was quite low. The room was very basically furnished with only a pair of bedside tables; however, it was adequately lighted and immaculately clean. The king-size bed was extremely comfortable, and (unlike many other places in Dalmatia) he provided more than enough blankets. Furthermore, and crucially after my experience with the bura, the room was extremely well heated. The attached bathroom was tiny but spotless. Towels were provided, but not soap or shampoo.
Service: Even in a country justly renowned for the friendliness and generosity of its people, Mr. Ćurin stands out in my mind. As well as driving halfway across the island to pick the four of us up, Mr. Ćurin also drove us to the harbor in time for our 7am ferry. He and his niece repeatedly checked with all of us to ensure we had everything that we needed and provided us with maps. Although I had no cause to make use of it, guests receive free parking in the pension’s lot.
I hope to return to Hvar and to stay here again. I found it the best value for money of anywhere I stayed in Dalmatia. Pension Ćurin’s location and somewhat Spartan rooms may not appeal to you if you are seeking a central location and more luxurious accommodation.
Further information: http://www.hvar.hr/teo%2Dcurin